looks good HD and you did them just different enough so that they don't look like everyone else[sm=smiley20.gif]

 

I never liked them! I'd much rather have the off road lights.

 

Yea Blackbear, it was a little frustrating at first and thanks for your PM helping me out there. I removed those hood release lever screws holding the corner dash section on and I tugged pretty hard but was afraid of breaking those plastic tabs. I finally gave it a good tug on the right side by the console and that side popped loose then the lower left and then the side plate. The install is clean and you can't see any wires, everything is hidden.

One thing, I tapped into the wrong GRAY wire first time around. I saw the harness in the side hole of the dash. That's not the one you need, you need to look up under the light switch **** and follow that harness down so you can get to it. Inside that smaller harness is the correct gray wire and it was simple to splice into with those cool little splicing kits.

Up on the roof I spaced the front lamp cover screw hole 1.5" from the rubber moulding on the top of the windshield. I centered the middle at 22.25" and then spaced the next set 8" from center and the outer ones are 3" in from the edge of the raised ABS rail.

Drilling wasn't a problem, I used my 18v cordless with a cobalt drill and a good spring loaded center punch. There were a few obstructions under the roofline and above the headliner. There is a double layer of metal and I had to fish my wires through two layers of metal, not a big deal but worth mentioning. I used the supplied self tapping screws and while they work fine they're a bit long IMO. I actually bottomed two out against the second metal layer under the roof. I backed the screw out and replaced with one a litter thicker and shorter and that helped seat the rubber base better against the body.

The crimp on connectors provided work OK but I had two of them pop open after I crimped it. I just closed it up and scrimped it a bit more then wrapped all of them with electrical tape.

I put a few small blocks wood in between the headliner and the roof to hold the headliner down a bit while I worked , even when it's loose it wants to stay in place and it's much easier when you have the headliner shimmed or a helper to hold it down when you need it. Like the others said, you really need to add longer leads on the hot wires of each lamp. The leads aren't long enough to get to the edge of the headliner much less beyond. I had enough slack on mine that I ran the main hot wore from right to left crimping each lamp along the way and was working below the headliner. Once finished then stuff the wires back under the headliner and button everything back up.

 

Dude.............

 

They definately make the H3 look 10X better

 

I rewired my pacer lights this week and recommed it to anyone else with them. I wanted them to flash when I used the keyless entry remote. So per someone elses suggestion on here, I ran a wire from one of the taillights,hid it under the length of the roof rail, then spliced it into the corner light on that side. It looks much better now when I use the keyless entry. Also saves the headache of fishing a wire in the cab area to under the dash.

 

Nice job

 

I am going to buy these also, did not know there was a "new" part #. What is the new Part#?

Sam

 

Sam, the new part # you're referring to is the Hummer cab light kit. It's got a big plastic wing that has the lights mounted on it and it mounts to the roof. The original part had wind noise issues. There is a newer model from GM that supposedly fixes the wind noise problem. That unit is around $475-$500 PLUS LABOR. Typical installed price is normally between $695 and $900 depending on the dealer's labor charges and how much they sell you the kit for.

These Pacer Chevy lights are available online or at some larger car parts stores. The set of five lamps with full wiring harness is under $50.00

 

Thanks !!

Sam