Not advisable

 

unhooking batt cables has been talked here many times. worked,to my surprise, when my h3 wouldn't shut off. cant hurt anything..

why not advisable?

 

Factory Hummer engineer states, that to reset the CPU, you can disconnect battery cables, but to let all internal capacitors to bleed down normally and do not short them out by touching cables together.
Shorting the cables together cause cause problems with the residual voltage.

I have done the reset the factory way and it has corrected some problems for me too.
I too have read that other procedure many times here as well.

 

did the engineer say that? sounds like its made up or a guess, "winging it".
every computer I ever saw had a reset circuit that provided a quik, instant abrupt change. no slow drifting to get there sometime voltage change.
just saying.
resets use bouncless buttons for that purpose,caps prevent the ring or bounce .

 

Yes, the engineer did state that exactly.
I will put more stock to what a GM engineer says over what you or I have "heard" in a forum.
It's your truck, you do what you want.

You're not drtom in disguise are you ? {sic}

 

Thank you NJTEX!!! It was the rear cargo door switch. I got to thinking about your thought on the door switches and at first, it didn't make since. Then I thought about how heavy the cargo door is on this beast with the wheel on it. Makes sense that under heavy acceleration that that door switch could cause this problem with the momentum of the weight of the door if the switch is just barely making. Well, I could find no adjustment on it at all so I cut out a 3/4 square piece of .060 aluminum and RTV'd it to the door where the switch makes contact with the door. Problem solved!!! The switch was making ok sitting static and under low or moderate acceleration, but when you mashed on the gas, it would go off every time. Very simple fix as I already had the aluminum and RTV. Took about 10 minutes. Thank you again. I probably would have never looked there if it weren't for you and this awesome forum!!!!!

 

i considered it weird because it locked,unlocked,relocked.
i could not duplicate that with a door ajar,breaking contact.wonder why yours did that?
a ding when accelerating with no unlock would be an "unweird" response. normal,ez fix.
btw the taper metal provides adjustment for a solid door closure,

 

i did further tests. you are not locking properly and your spacer is just closing the sw and not taking up the looseness. its the lock on the frame with the torx screws,needs to be pulled in to bring the door in and also do the weather strip seal properly.
i lefy mine partly unlatched and did go.stop,go on the driveway and it would "clunk"shut and lock. yours is loose enuf to wiggle when locked. not good...
it will be flush all around when set right

 

Those door switches are flaky after they age a while - if you look at them you can see they are not sealed and moisture can get into them and corrode them. I had the same "phantom locks" problem with two of my door switches. I just replaced all 5 of them - was less than $40 including the shipping.

 

his problem is the door wiggles,jiggles, and his the sw as it is bouncing around. it not the sw