Trading vette for h1 looking for advice
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 190
And yes, to be safe remove cap and run engine, watch for bubbles in tank. If you see bubbles from surge tank you can remove drive belt. remove coolant crossover pipe. Run engine and watch for bubbles from either side this will determine which head gasket is at fault. Ive worked on these and diagnosed many of them, never seen any 6.5 get to operating temp in 10 min. Just have to be careful removing cap once its been run for 10 min, should be no pressure at that running time or very little, if it starts to really try to push coolant then you know you have a pressuring up problem for sure.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 188
From: The Great state of Texas near Austin
Humtack is your real name dave breggin? - you sure do state your illogical opinion like a fact.
If you have bubbles in the coolant why would you waste your customers time figuring out which head gasket it is? Do you diag so many of these because you only diag one at a time. Do you only change one head gasket at a time? Thats like replacing one spark plug in a v8. If your truck does not warm up in anout 10 min you should reinstall the thermostats. Coolant system pressure is caused by the heat of engine warming up. Some people come on here looking for good technical advice but when you give out inaccurate, senseless & dangerous information people cab get hurt (physically and financially )and no one likes that. Humtack check out the hml - it full if keyboard warriors popping popcorn and offering no valuable input to the community like yourself.
If you have bubbles in the coolant why would you waste your customers time figuring out which head gasket it is? Do you diag so many of these because you only diag one at a time. Do you only change one head gasket at a time? Thats like replacing one spark plug in a v8. If your truck does not warm up in anout 10 min you should reinstall the thermostats. Coolant system pressure is caused by the heat of engine warming up. Some people come on here looking for good technical advice but when you give out inaccurate, senseless & dangerous information people cab get hurt (physically and financially )and no one likes that. Humtack check out the hml - it full if keyboard warriors popping popcorn and offering no valuable input to the community like yourself.
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 11
Vett
Hello all. I' am fairly new to the Forum, I joined after lurking here for some time and purchasing a H3. Ever since my purchase, I have become addicted to the Hummer.
I' am contemplating trading in my 2014 Corvette and purchasing a 2001 H1 Wagon. I have done a ton of research on the truck and it appears that the Vin #(137ZA84371E191480) is a later build than that of the Vin # that has been posted for the cracked blocks. The Casting number under the cylinder appears to be H30. It is a 3 owner truck. A Carfax report indicates that the first owner had it for almost 14 years, second owner bought it to flip it and they did a ton of work at Benzin motor works on OK. The third owner(which is what worries me) purchased the truck, added a front and rear cameras, new radio with bluetooth and GPS, new LED headlights and aux lighting for the rollbar. He then traded the truck into the dealer two months after he purchased it. I have been told that the guy goes through cars like water and he purchased a brand new, jacked up f350.
Now that I have bored you with preliminary info, As much as I want to buy the truck, I 'am concerned. I have printed a check list of what to check for, I have done tons of reading about these trucks but I never owned nor have any experience with one.
On Wed, March 30, I' am going to be traveling from NY to Raynham, MA where the truck is located. Is there anyone locally that has knowledge of these trucks that can help me go through the inspection of the truck before I make my decision. Thanks in advance. Jacques
I' am contemplating trading in my 2014 Corvette and purchasing a 2001 H1 Wagon. I have done a ton of research on the truck and it appears that the Vin #(137ZA84371E191480) is a later build than that of the Vin # that has been posted for the cracked blocks. The Casting number under the cylinder appears to be H30. It is a 3 owner truck. A Carfax report indicates that the first owner had it for almost 14 years, second owner bought it to flip it and they did a ton of work at Benzin motor works on OK. The third owner(which is what worries me) purchased the truck, added a front and rear cameras, new radio with bluetooth and GPS, new LED headlights and aux lighting for the rollbar. He then traded the truck into the dealer two months after he purchased it. I have been told that the guy goes through cars like water and he purchased a brand new, jacked up f350.
Now that I have bored you with preliminary info, As much as I want to buy the truck, I 'am concerned. I have printed a check list of what to check for, I have done tons of reading about these trucks but I never owned nor have any experience with one.
On Wed, March 30, I' am going to be traveling from NY to Raynham, MA where the truck is located. Is there anyone locally that has knowledge of these trucks that can help me go through the inspection of the truck before I make my decision. Thanks in advance. Jacques
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 190
Humtack is your real name dave breggin? - you sure do state your illogical opinion like a fact.
If you have bubbles in the coolant why would you waste your customers time figuring out which head gasket it is? Do you diag so many of these because you only diag one at a time. Do you only change one head gasket at a time? Thats like replacing one spark plug in a v8. If your truck does not warm up in anout 10 min you should reinstall the thermostats. Coolant system pressure is caused by the heat of engine warming up. Some people come on here looking for good technical advice but when you give out inaccurate, senseless & dangerous information people cab get hurt (physically and financially )and no one likes that. Humtack check out the hml - it full if keyboard warriors popping popcorn and offering no valuable input to the community like yourself.
If you have bubbles in the coolant why would you waste your customers time figuring out which head gasket it is? Do you diag so many of these because you only diag one at a time. Do you only change one head gasket at a time? Thats like replacing one spark plug in a v8. If your truck does not warm up in anout 10 min you should reinstall the thermostats. Coolant system pressure is caused by the heat of engine warming up. Some people come on here looking for good technical advice but when you give out inaccurate, senseless & dangerous information people cab get hurt (physically and financially )and no one likes that. Humtack check out the hml - it full if keyboard warriors popping popcorn and offering no valuable input to the community like yourself.
Thread Starter
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Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 101
From: Suffolk County, New York
Hunt continues. Tuesday, I'll be traveling to North Smithfield Rhode Island to go look at a 2002 H1, one owner from Florida. This truck appears to be rust free and it only has 31000 miles. Looks much better than the first one that I looked at but it is also $20000 more, which I think is worth it versus the aggrevation Of having to repair the first one. Again, I welcome someone who is knowledgeable to help me look at this one. Lunch and beverages are of course on me.
Thread Starter
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Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 101
From: Suffolk County, New York
Well.... I pulled the trigger today. Super clean truck, only rust was two little surface rust spots on the very top of the roof. Thank you for the tips
Cars for Sale: Used 2002 HUMMER H1 in 4-Door Wagon, North Smithfield RI: 02896 Details - Sport Utility - Autotrader
Cars for Sale: Used 2002 HUMMER H1 in 4-Door Wagon, North Smithfield RI: 02896 Details - Sport Utility - Autotrader
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 188
From: The Great state of Texas near Austin
Congratulations! Dont forget about that roof rust. Get it taken care of right away! Rust is cancer of metal. Check the wagon body real good for paint bubbles and any touched up paint. The roof, wagon body and doors are steel. The truck body is aluminum where riveted. Check the transmission oil level, if its low you better check the Tcase oil level at the fill plug. If its over full( pukes out oil)- you got " the vampire". Have a C service done on the truck- And make sure its by someone who knows hummers (real hummers).
Thread Starter
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Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 101
From: Suffolk County, New York
Congratulations! Dont forget about that roof rust. Get it taken care of right away! Rust is cancer of metal. Check the wagon body real good for paint bubbles and any touched up paint. The roof, wagon body and doors are steel. The truck body is aluminum where riveted. Check the transmission oil level, if its low you better check the Tcase oil level at the fill plug. If its over full( pukes out oil)- you got " the vampire". Have a C service done on the truck- And make sure its by someone who knows hummers (real hummers).
The first truck I looked at, had rust in the places that you mentioned. This one, I found two small spots that appear to be surface rust on the very top. I plan on changing all the fluids in the truck. Today, I had a hard time getting the cover off for the air filter, it was in there tight. When I finally got it off, I realized that it was the original air filter with the date of 04/02 and it actually did not look too bad. Tranny fluid level was fine, will be doing the oil change first. It was a little low on coolant, a little low on power steering fluid. I plan on picking up these fluids tomorrow to top everything off until I get to completely flushing the fluids.