Trading vette for h1 looking for advice
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Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 101
From: Suffolk County, New York
Trading vette for h1 looking for advice
Hello all. I' am fairly new to the Forum, I joined after lurking here for some time and purchasing a H3. Ever since my purchase, I have become addicted to the Hummer.
I' am contemplating trading in my 2014 Corvette and purchasing a 2001 H1 Wagon. I have done a ton of research on the truck and it appears that the Vin #(137ZA84371E191480) is a later build than that of the Vin # that has been posted for the cracked blocks. The Casting number under the cylinder appears to be H30. It is a 3 owner truck. A Carfax report indicates that the first owner had it for almost 14 years, second owner bought it to flip it and they did a ton of work at Benzin motor works on OK. The third owner(which is what worries me) purchased the truck, added a front and rear cameras, new radio with bluetooth and GPS, new LED headlights and aux lighting for the rollbar. He then traded the truck into the dealer two months after he purchased it. I have been told that the guy goes through cars like water and he purchased a brand new, jacked up f350.
Now that I have bored you with preliminary info, As much as I want to buy the truck, I 'am concerned. I have printed a check list of what to check for, I have done tons of reading about these trucks but I never owned nor have any experience with one.
On Wed, March 30, I' am going to be traveling from NY to Raynham, MA where the truck is located. Is there anyone locally that has knowledge of these trucks that can help me go through the inspection of the truck before I make my decision. Thanks in advance. Jacques
I' am contemplating trading in my 2014 Corvette and purchasing a 2001 H1 Wagon. I have done a ton of research on the truck and it appears that the Vin #(137ZA84371E191480) is a later build than that of the Vin # that has been posted for the cracked blocks. The Casting number under the cylinder appears to be H30. It is a 3 owner truck. A Carfax report indicates that the first owner had it for almost 14 years, second owner bought it to flip it and they did a ton of work at Benzin motor works on OK. The third owner(which is what worries me) purchased the truck, added a front and rear cameras, new radio with bluetooth and GPS, new LED headlights and aux lighting for the rollbar. He then traded the truck into the dealer two months after he purchased it. I have been told that the guy goes through cars like water and he purchased a brand new, jacked up f350.
Now that I have bored you with preliminary info, As much as I want to buy the truck, I 'am concerned. I have printed a check list of what to check for, I have done tons of reading about these trucks but I never owned nor have any experience with one.
On Wed, March 30, I' am going to be traveling from NY to Raynham, MA where the truck is located. Is there anyone locally that has knowledge of these trucks that can help me go through the inspection of the truck before I make my decision. Thanks in advance. Jacques
Junior Member
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 29
Hey - I am also a Corvette lover and past owner. 71 vert, 2008 Z06. I had to part with them because of a very bad back. I had always wanted an H1 and finally got the chance last year. Here's my take…
As you know if you have driven one, this thing bears no resemblance to a Vette. They are loud. They rattle…particularly w/out Hood Snubbers. They smell like diesel. And the "creature comforts" are almost non-existent even IF you add almost every bell and whistle. The cockpit layout is just pretty awkward. BUT, they are very cool. And I laugh every time I drive mine.
The truck you are describing sounds a bit like mine. 2000 H1 wagon. It was in GREAT shape and I got a good deal. The truck had been through a few owners. Mostly I suspect because the guy got one for the same reason I did, drove it and said "Holy crap. This thing is a TRUCK.". I had a Ford Raptor so I was used to the width…
Frankly, as a corvette owner, I suspect you may buy the truck and almost immediately start considering doing what I did…full drivetrain replacement to a Duramax+Allison. My conversion was done over about 6 months and Predator literally replaced 90% of the drivetrain. I HAD a truck that was in good shape but was 0-60 in 25 secs and got 10 mpg. I HAVE a truck that is like new, goes 0-60 in about 7 or 8 secs and gets 24 mpg. But that comes at a pretty high price.
There is a lot of great info up here on what to look for. Given the location, the main thing I would look for is RUST. I would also drive it around as much as you can and check all the little stuff…gauges, CTIS, speed control, A/C, lighting, etc.
As you know if you have driven one, this thing bears no resemblance to a Vette. They are loud. They rattle…particularly w/out Hood Snubbers. They smell like diesel. And the "creature comforts" are almost non-existent even IF you add almost every bell and whistle. The cockpit layout is just pretty awkward. BUT, they are very cool. And I laugh every time I drive mine.
The truck you are describing sounds a bit like mine. 2000 H1 wagon. It was in GREAT shape and I got a good deal. The truck had been through a few owners. Mostly I suspect because the guy got one for the same reason I did, drove it and said "Holy crap. This thing is a TRUCK.". I had a Ford Raptor so I was used to the width…
Frankly, as a corvette owner, I suspect you may buy the truck and almost immediately start considering doing what I did…full drivetrain replacement to a Duramax+Allison. My conversion was done over about 6 months and Predator literally replaced 90% of the drivetrain. I HAD a truck that was in good shape but was 0-60 in 25 secs and got 10 mpg. I HAVE a truck that is like new, goes 0-60 in about 7 or 8 secs and gets 24 mpg. But that comes at a pretty high price.
There is a lot of great info up here on what to look for. Given the location, the main thing I would look for is RUST. I would also drive it around as much as you can and check all the little stuff…gauges, CTIS, speed control, A/C, lighting, etc.
Thread Starter
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Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 101
From: Suffolk County, New York
Thank you POWAY. The truck just recently had about 15k worth of work done to it at Benzin Motor works in OK. I have done nothing but research about this specific truck and educated myself in regards to an H1. Totally different kind of animal than my H3 and my Vette. Looking to get the H1 so I can take my sons out again to the beach and out for rides, not looking to do it up at all. Long story short, I have three sons who are Autistic, use to take them out for rides in my Bel Air. They all grew older and larger and out grew the car so I bought myself a Vette. Now I retired, barely use the Vette so I wanted a toy for myself that I can also enjoy with my sons. The H1 appears to be mechanically sound and problem free underneath with the rust because from what I gathered, the first owner for the first 14 years undercoated the truck (Thank God). The truck does have some bubbling of the paint on the roof by the rear windows and side windows which I will be inspecting on Wed.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 190
You are correct, the cracked engine blocks in cylinder 8 were the 96-98 model years vin y and z. I would still run the engine and after about 10 min remove cooling system surge tank cap and make sure its not pressured up, if it is could be indication of head gasket problem
Thread Starter
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Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 101
From: Suffolk County, New York
Well, sadly, I passed up on this H1. Way too much rust on the roof by the back side windows and the opera windows. Rust was visible all across the flange where the top meets the wheel wells. Hunt continues! Thank you for the input
Thread Starter
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Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 101
From: Suffolk County, New York
You are correct, the cracked engine blocks in cylinder 8 were the 96-98 model years vin y and z. I would still run the engine and after about 10 min remove cooling system surge tank cap and make sure its not pressured up, if it is could be indication of head gasket problem
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 188
From: The Great state of Texas near Austin
Don't ever start a engine and let it warm up and then open the radiator cap. After 10 minutes of running the engine it will be up to operating temperature and it should be under pressure and it will blow up in your face if you open the cap. Open the radiator cap when truck is cold then start the engine. If you have exhaust bubbles coming in your coolant that's bad. You can pressure test the cooling system & if it leaks down and nothing leaks on the ground that's bad. And if your Oil looks like butter that's also bad.
Last edited by Ian Ward; Mar 30, 2016 at 08:25 PM.
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From:
You are correct, the cracked engine blocks in cylinder 8 were the 96-98 model years vin y and z. I would still run the engine and after about 10 min remove cooling system surge tank cap and make sure its not pressured up, if it is could be indication of head gasket problem
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 190
Subject:
Models Affected:
1 of 1
BACKGROUND
Vehicles exhibiting a chronic loss of engine coolant with no external coolant leakage or excess pressure in the
coolant surge tank (Surge tank blowoff) may have a cracked engine block. Some vehicles may produce white
smoke at startup and a rough idle for a short time.
WARRANTY
The normal provisions of the warranty policy apply.
PROCEDURE
1. Check coolant level and top up if necessary.
2. Run the engine and check for coolant leaks. Repair leaks if present.
3. If no leaks are found, perform a coolant system pressure check at normal operating temperature:
• Pressurize the system to 15 psi for 30 minutes and observe pressure.
• If there is a pressure drop, check for external coolant leaks and repair. If no external leaks are found procede
to step 4.
4. Remove the number 8 cylinder glow plug and check for coolant on the glow plug. Bar the engine over
to bring the number 8 piston to the top of the cylinder and check for coolant in the glow plug hole.
5. If the glow plug in the number 8 cylinder is wet or coolant is present in the glow plug hole, call the AM
General Warranty Department.
98-02-05
LOSS OF ENGINE COOLANT, EXCESS PRESSURE IN SURGE TANK, OVERHEATING
1996 THROUGH 1998 VIN Y AND Z VEHICLES
Models Affected:
1 of 1
BACKGROUND
Vehicles exhibiting a chronic loss of engine coolant with no external coolant leakage or excess pressure in the
coolant surge tank (Surge tank blowoff) may have a cracked engine block. Some vehicles may produce white
smoke at startup and a rough idle for a short time.
WARRANTY
The normal provisions of the warranty policy apply.
PROCEDURE
1. Check coolant level and top up if necessary.
2. Run the engine and check for coolant leaks. Repair leaks if present.
3. If no leaks are found, perform a coolant system pressure check at normal operating temperature:
• Pressurize the system to 15 psi for 30 minutes and observe pressure.
• If there is a pressure drop, check for external coolant leaks and repair. If no external leaks are found procede
to step 4.
4. Remove the number 8 cylinder glow plug and check for coolant on the glow plug. Bar the engine over
to bring the number 8 piston to the top of the cylinder and check for coolant in the glow plug hole.
5. If the glow plug in the number 8 cylinder is wet or coolant is present in the glow plug hole, call the AM
General Warranty Department.
98-02-05
LOSS OF ENGINE COOLANT, EXCESS PRESSURE IN SURGE TANK, OVERHEATING
1996 THROUGH 1998 VIN Y AND Z VEHICLES