" after I noticed the marked difference in ride quality and hearing my shock bottom out on any little dip in the road,", he said,

with bump stops already touching and "stopping nose dive",ahem, and if cranked,has MORE SHOCK TRAVEL, how does a h3 bottom on a bump.
the shock has less UP room but more down room.

IF the shock started with 6 inches of up/dn space and you took 3 inch out of top it has 9 inch to go down,,and the bump stop wont let it go 2 inches! does it go up 3 on a bump??

how does all this magic work??

 

I think what some people worry about is overextending the shock on say, rock climbs, or going over a huge bump/train tracks and the suspension unloads and tears the shocks.

 

if he felt the shock hit,,how could it? xcept wheel going DOWN,it cant go up any higher than it ever did,,,BUMPSTOP!!
now youre right about overextension and there you need a SHORTER shock to make up for the lift.

you could raise the top- end of shock if possible and then have exactly the same space as stock.

its so eazy!!

remember,longer shocks risk deadly dropout!!
so keep them short

tom

 

I digress after reviewing exactly how the readylife type of torsion keys function. They put the exact same stress on the t-bars as does cranking the stock ones. I still say you need new front shocks. The stock ones wont bottom out, but they can top out, if you hit any meaningful bumps.

 

Tom I'm confused by this method of logic ... Bumpstops are for the downward travel (compression). Topping out the shock is in the upward (extension).

If you increase the distance between the axel and the shock mount point .... how can you even say you need a SHORTER shock?? That makes absolutely no sense.

 

With all due respect, I think you have your up and down mixed up. lol

When you crank the tbars, you're extending your shock past factory specs, which means you have more room for the front end to move down, hence the increased nose dive on hard braking if you don't get extended bump stops.

With your shocks extended, you have less room for your tire to drop before the shock reaches it's maximum length. My experience was that the shock was being extended to the max and making a noise when it did so (what I referred to as "bottoming out"). I remedied this by replacing the shocks with LONGER ones, to compensate for the increased travel caused by cranking the tbars.

I hope this helps clear up your confusion.

 

forget tbars, lift truck by frame till the wheels hang on the shocks. no matter, thats as far as they go at factory specs. use longer shocks and you risk "stretching" the axles . what we dont know is the max the factory design allows for b4 axle trbl starts.
the shocks have nothing to do with how far up the wheel goes, the bumpstop controls that. it can never go up enuf to close the shock. especially if cranked up

 

I have cranked my T-Bars 2 1/2 times on both sides. It does not look like I have done anything. What is the measurements from the center of the tire to the bottom of the fender supposed to be after turning T-Bars 2 1/2 times?

 

I turned my torsion bolts like 18-19 times each.. nobody cares how many times you turned the bolt. What matters is you keep the fender to center-wheel around 23".

 

WOW.. I did not know you can turn them that much. I was just turning them to level out my H3. How much did it lift yours after turning your T-Bars that much?