Surging while Stopping?
Great idea with the syringe!!!! I tried to bleed my brakes the old fassion way and found that you couldnt do the rear without having the key on. Since then I have had pulsating in my pedal on the initial press and the head light dims. I think I messed something up, but it doesn't affect braking effectiveness.
because through process of elimination i do know what's wrong - i just defies all logic. it WAS a bad rotor that didn't thump the pedal or jerk the wheel and it didn't do it until the brakes generated heat. the true test will be stop and go rush hour traffic and that won't be until monday. in the meantime i think i'm just gonna leave well enough alone.
now it's time to put a clutch in the dirtbike so i can get out there on sunday. it's supposed to be almost 60 degrees here!
now it's time to put a clutch in the dirtbike so i can get out there on sunday. it's supposed to be almost 60 degrees here!
the power unit is a small motor that pumps fluid up into an air chamber. you can hear it with key on,ign off. each 2-4 brake hits,it pumps. thats why you need key on to bleed the "old way".
it might cause a slight dimming of lights,,??
if you stop on a hill,up/down,ease off brake,you should drift immediatly. keep on pedal slightly you would feel any uneven drag or bump on rotor.
i see no reason why it would change while turning.
it might cause a slight dimming of lights,,??
if you stop on a hill,up/down,ease off brake,you should drift immediatly. keep on pedal slightly you would feel any uneven drag or bump on rotor.
i see no reason why it would change while turning.
I've had the same problem for the last year or so.. thinking it was the rotors, i turned all 4 and changed the pads..
Problem continued even with all this work done.
It's like a catch and release after brakes getting hot.
Now what I heard from my mechanic is the following :
The caliper's pistons are plastic and not metal and when they heat up, they expand thus causing this catch and release syndrome.
Anyone has heard anything to this effect ? and could the pistons be changed to metal ones or did GM change them on later models ?
Problem is not major, but can become irritating sometimes..
Problem continued even with all this work done.
It's like a catch and release after brakes getting hot.
Now what I heard from my mechanic is the following :
The caliper's pistons are plastic and not metal and when they heat up, they expand thus causing this catch and release syndrome.
Anyone has heard anything to this effect ? and could the pistons be changed to metal ones or did GM change them on later models ?
Problem is not major, but can become irritating sometimes..
sounds like the made up bs is flying again!. the enginneers know about heat caused expansion and non metal pistons could be more stable than metal.
ive driven 2/h3 and i routinly check drag by drifting on hills. so for with total of 40000miles on 2/h3,ZERO DRAG. i can drag the brakes on purpose and never get drag whin i let it drift on a grade.
i have noticed THIS, on veh when i did brake jobs;AFTER compressing calipers,they never seem as free to move in/out like the unmolested new calipers do.
you know they move in on pedal press and move back slightly on release,(when operating new/normal) the piston sticks to the rubber o ring and is pulled back. when the pads wear enuf the piston slides a little to self adjust and sticks again till auto adjust it needed
on old cars the rubber hoses close in/constrict and prevent the juice to escape back where it belongs. thats tricky to find.
ive driven 2/h3 and i routinly check drag by drifting on hills. so for with total of 40000miles on 2/h3,ZERO DRAG. i can drag the brakes on purpose and never get drag whin i let it drift on a grade.
i have noticed THIS, on veh when i did brake jobs;AFTER compressing calipers,they never seem as free to move in/out like the unmolested new calipers do.
you know they move in on pedal press and move back slightly on release,(when operating new/normal) the piston sticks to the rubber o ring and is pulled back. when the pads wear enuf the piston slides a little to self adjust and sticks again till auto adjust it needed
on old cars the rubber hoses close in/constrict and prevent the juice to escape back where it belongs. thats tricky to find.
Last edited by drtom; Mar 23, 2012 at 12:02 PM.
I too own an '06 H3, and have had a surging braking problem, in particular at slow speeds. I finally broke down and purchased 2 front rotors and a set of pads, problem appears to be solved after a quick trip around town. Actually what I was getting on here today for, I was doing a bit of research earlier between this forum and Google to figure out why my passenger front rotor was so damn hard to remove. No good responses except the "tap gently with a hammer and hardwood" and "not too hard, don't want to damage wheel bearings". After some head scratching, I took one of the new rotors to Ace, found that the extra two threaded holes in the bolt pattern were 10mm X 1.25, purchased 2 about an inch and a half long, and bolted them into the stubborn rotor at home and no beating required. I don't think I even got to 10 ft-lbs of torque before it slid off. And yeah, I'd removed the retainers already.. Just passing my experience along. Later folks.


