So, any further insight as to what is going on?

Chris

 

funny you should ask. i'm off today and just waiting for it to warm up a bit before i go out there and have a look into the possibility of a sticky caliper. i'll definitely update the thread later today.

 

no luck but i'm positive it's a brake issue. pads are good, calipers are working fine and i got rid of the rust on the rotors and they "look" good, no bluing from heat anyway. i don't know anyone in town with a brake lathe either to tell me if one's tweaked (BUT DAMMIT I SHOULD FEEL THAT IN THE FREAKIN' PEDAL!). might just have to bring 'em down to meineke - the guy on the phone said he'd turn them for me as long as there within spec. actually contemplating just buying 4 new rotors and being done with it. ****!

 

a simple brake test. stop on a hill,ease off pedal. you should drift immediately,no drag. if you slow the drift you might "feel" something.

i use the grassy knoll on my side yard!

no, you get your own.

 

I would lean toward just replacing the four roto if you can sing it. It is cheaper then takin it to the shop these days. Lol!

 

that's the plan

 

Why would you replace something if you don't even know what is wrong? Any shop can pull the wheel and mic the rotors to see if they can be turned. If you have pulsing rotors you are most definitely going to feel it in the pedal.

 

ok, so what do you suggest?

it's not the transfer case locking up randomly because it does it whether it's locked or not, it does it when i cruise to a stop light in neutral which rules out the transmission (right?) and nothing seems to be binding in the diffs. this IS a brake problem and the way the nose bobs up and down is telling me that it's a problem with my front brakes. agree? it's as if they heat up and then grab in one spot on the rotor just like when your brakes pulsate - just without the pedal or steering wheel feedback.

i'm at a point where a replacement rotor is going to be cheaper than sending it in for diagnostics, only to get soaked by a dealer for 4 new rotors, pads, and whatever else they have laying around and want to unload. so, i get 1 new rotor and put it on the side i suspect is the problem. if that doesn't cure it i turn the old rotor i just pulled off and swap it onto the other side.

 

Have you detached the front DS and tried driving it? Second have you defeated the ABS (if possible)?

Also, I totally agree about the price for pads, rotors being a heck of allot cheaper to replace then taking it in to have it checked. Lol! the rotors go for $50 a piece and the pads about $50 for the pair. That's aprrox. one hour labor here in SE. WI.

Chris

 

i've determined that it's definitely not a drive-line issue.

replaced passenger's side rotor and got rid of 90% of the problem. that was the side that seemed to dip the most. i'll get after the driver's side tomorrow.