If anybody edited or deleted any posts, I'd be able to see it. Nobody has modified anything



and BTW.... I can't wait to drive to Jersey to go wheeling with my ole pal Muddy....

 

yep.... nothing edited in this thread....

 

I can't top that

Speaking of which, my wife is all good for the trip. I'll hop online later and we'll talk. I have to finish painting my gazeebo today and play with my new BR player. Wooohoo.

I'm such a kid

 

I think I understand your concern that something may have been deleted/edited based on the tone of this thread and you were just asking if the differences were previously discussed.

I see three levels of intakes modifications:

1) Drop in high flow filter air filter (K&N, etc.) which might help some.

2) Resonator bypass, with stock air box - Doc intake (opens up air box nozzle too), the design linked in this thread, and some others that are scattered on this site.

3) Complete new intake - These eliminate the air box and resonator. They can have a new tube and heat shield like K&N, AEM, etc. or a new tube and a new air box like Volant.

1 and 2 keep the stock look. 3 has the potential to make more power but sealing off heat with the ones with a heat shield is an issue along with sealing for off-roading. 3 costs the most, followed by 2, and then 1.

The functional difference between the Doc intake and the one linked in this thread is that the Doc intake uses a 3.5 inch pipe and this one uses a 3 inch pipe. So the Doc intake has about 30% more cross sectional area for flow and more "reserve" air for transient air demands. The Doc intake is steel this one is PVC. The Doc intake includes a coupling that replaces the restrictive nozzle on the stock air box. The Doc intake costs $150 and this one costs about $25 but you have to do some of your own construction.

 

I never said he was outta line for posting a dyi nor did I make any comments about it until I felt he took another jab at doc. I also welcome anyone to post any and all diy'sand over the years on many differnt forums I have used differnt diy's. I just don't believe that was the intent of this post but what ever it's cool with me if it's cool with the board mods.

 

DIY threads are fine, even when from another forum. It is all good.

I would agree that it is up to you to decide what you want to put on your own truck. You can spend $20-40 bucks, and have a home madeintake.

You can also spend $400.00 and get the GM Performance version with fake chrome, or spend anywhere in between, up to you. I do know you'd be hard pressed to buy
4 made in the USA all SS T bolt clamps for $20.00, let alone 4 ply silicone couplers. It is all personal preference.
I saw some guy on one of those Colorado/Canyon forums that made one out of PVC pieces and painted it? Not for me, but it could be done.

 

Exactly.... I was trying to not stoke any fires there may have been. Seemed people were getting pretty riled up for what seemed to be a very innocent post.

Another simple qustion for Doc and CHP:

Wouldn't Aluminum or plastic be preferable to steel for an intake as far as heat is concerned? IE would the 30% increase in volume not be ofset in part by the temprature of the air inside?

Does it make a diference one way or the other in the real world, or is it just splitting hairs at that point?

 

Like I said earlier, I don't really know the technical side of this like they do. But, I can tell you that the steel tube on my H3 (Doc's) doesn't get warm like you would think. HG, Gunner and myself have all reported that the pipe is still cool to the tough after driving around town or on the HWY at 2500-3000 RPM's.

 

What can an intake do for you, that is the question.

If you think a steel or aluminium pipe will get hot while driving, you are mistaken. Plastic IMO screams "cheap", but it is less of a heat conductor, true.
CHP previously pointed out that there can be heat soaking, like after parking, possibly heavy stop and go traffic, etc. When in stop and go summer traffic, your intake can't do anything to boost performance for you any way. When you fire up the engine after parking, any warm metal pipe cools quickly (within a couple miles). Is it possible that there could be some heat transfer the few moments afteryou start it and idle over to the tree at the start line of a drag track afterparking hot,and rip it?Yep. My H3 has been to the track, but not ripping down it.

All of these materials are used by many intake makers, some use more than one for the same application. The real world issue is air flow, heat transfer is deminimus, so much so I can't measure it. I'm not a laboratory, but the cylinder head porting business nextdoor does have a sweet flow bench, and helped me with testing.Since we do not drive in a laboratory, I think I'll worry about air flow. Others are free to have their own opinions.

Steve#1, you'd have to have a lot of heattransfer to offset 30% flow, that is why I feel it is important to grab your intake charge from outside the underhood engine compartment, rather than use the heat shield/barricade off in the corner. That set up is not gonna shield heat 100%, and will have you sucking mud when off roading in wet/muddy conditions, but it is trying to increase flow to offset those shortfalls. Nothing is perfect, but some of it is pretty darn good.

 

Thanks Doc.