Thank you

 

are you able to just un-solder then swap the boards on the back?
you probably will not need the 4 extra points across the top if the ones connecting the motor function.the four bottom Silverado pins are wired the same as the H2's.

are both sockets 8 pin? if they are then the top 4 would not be used at all on the H2 so should still work. well in theory.

 

The boards are held in-place by 3 little plastic "pips" which need to be trimmed-off to remove the PCB. The original H2 pcb has a 4-way connector + 4 individual wires, the Silverado pcb has an 8-way connector and no loose wires. So what GM has done is incorporate the 4 loose wires into the connector, they literally added an extra row of pins (you can see in the JPG)

The PCB has two potentioneters mechanically linked to the plastic rack & pinion movements of each mirror. The pots (3.7K Ohms) are wired in parallel across 0V and +5V their sliders go (via a resistor) to the door control module. All 8 connectors are used on mine, but this may only be on H2's that have memory buttons and kerb view (not sure about that)

My picture shows a Silverado PCB placed in a H2 plastic housing, I seem to recall the Silverado housing was slightly different and had to be modified but it was a while ago and unfortunately its now in my truck!

 

great info. thanks. at least many of the hard to find parts are salvageable. well as long as the housing or mirrors are not destroyed.

 

bronxteck

Yes indeed, although I must be unlucky as I've got two damaged housings, one was off my truck. the other came off a mirror mechanism bought on eBay as "Used" but working, hard to return when you live across the pond

I suspect the damaged was caused either by man-handling at the car-wash or by the mechansim getting stuck with road dirt and contamination.

One thing I did learn is not to try and lubricate the assembly with oil or grease, this only makes things worse. I found dismantling all the plastic parts and cleaning them thoroughly with IPA worked best, the motors and little white pinions can be left in-place (better not to disturb them).

Dry PTFE spray (not the bike chain stuff) might help, but the parts still need to be cleaned first.

The mechnism's are easy to test on the bench which can be done simply by putting +12V across each motor and reversing the polarity to change direction.

Once I've figured out where to get all the spare parts from or how to repair the broken bits I'll make a video about this too, I've spent a lot of time on these mechanism's it would be a shame for folks not to benefit.

 

very cool, thank you for this information. I look forward to the video.