Main issue is in bold, background is everything else.

I got an oil change done on my car, don't know if this is relevant or pure coincidence? I told them fully synthetic and that is what they said they did and put on paper. I used this type since I had this car.

Within a few hours I notice a slight bit of shaking on my car.

Next morning? It's shaking really bad and the check engine light is flashing. Supposedly cylinder 1 misfire. I had a misfire months ago and it never shook. I think a different cylinder, not sure.

I took it a mechanic that I hadn't used because I just moved here. After getting the cylinder 1 misfire code... he checked it. IT WAS FINE. So were the other ones. He said the first one was just a bit loose. He tightened it, unplugged the battery and said that "reset" the computer. My car drove fine for 2 days. So I thought, yay, it's fixed. NOPE.

The the light came back. It's blinking and it's back to shaking really bad.

I don't know if it's wise to drive to my regular mechanic who's 2 hours away. I heard misfires driving on em can cause the catalytic converter to go wrong. When I first got the car that had gone wrong so I know that's expensive.

 

Have you checked the oil level to assure they didn't drastically overfill it? I've heard cases of shaking, smoking, and loss of power when the oil is overfilled to the point of aeration of the oil when running.

 

Yes. I took it to a mechanic in town and he checked that and checked the hoses and he said everything was good. He checked the first cylinder and that was fine. That was $60 later that he charged for that temporary fix as I see it now. All he did was tighten up the first cylinder and "reset" the computer and it was running fine.

First time I ever used this oil place, as it was rated best in town, but it all went south after I left there. Fully synthetic oil costs $70-$100 depending on where you go. So to do that over just to "see" if that was it. CRAP. They used a gas pump type thing (that thing you use to put gas lol) to put oil in... I never seen that before.

I'm thinking I'm going to have to pay $80 for a diagnostic check at the dealership.

I'm worried about it being the head problem because I don't have $2,600+ to fix that problem and it's at 120,000 miles. 2006 btw.

 

One of my initial thoughts was them knocking something out of place (but according to this mechanic everything's in place) and next was wrong oil? As much as they said they used fully synthetic and wrote it on paper I'm wondering if that's a possibility? For the car to go nuts and lose power/shake because of the wrong oil?

 

....but it could go nuts and start shaking if they used say, tranny fluid instead of oil...

To the OP- Have you checked the dipstick yourself to verify the correct lubricant is in there at the correct level?

 

im going to guess that oil is black and trans fluid is white/yellowish?

 

i thought oil was suppose to be black haha but the dipstick it was at the very top of the line, i try to draw a picture to explain, is that too much or just right?

i have no idea how to tell if its right but this is what color it is:

 

i wish i could edit the post so i wouldn't have to keep reposting stuff! @ auto part store it said cylinder 1 misfire so i know there had been one before. i called up the mechanic i had who did this. they said that was the one that misfired in january. they also said my car likes to announce the wrong cylinder that is misfiring so i could be another. SIGH. the mechanics here suck, i don't want to drive it 2 hours away to get it fixed for the problem to get worse and for it to possibly cost thousands to fix!

 

It sounds more like a bad head to me or coil pack. Even if they didn't put in synthetic it wouldn't cause an issue.

 

That looks like oil residue. Tranny fluid would be red.

The level may be a tad high. It's supposed to be in the cross-hatched area but no higher. The Owners Manual states any higher levels than the top of the cross-hatch can cause damage to the motor.

That being said, 6 quarts with a filter puts mine a little bit above the cross-hatch and I'm going to trust filling it to specified capacity before I trust the dipstick.

Another thing to check: Most oil change places check your airfilter as part of their service. It's possible they bumped and either unplugged or damaged your MAF sensor (the connection on your intake tube going to the airbox) while checking the filter. 1) Check to see if it's plugged in. 2) Even if it is plugged in, try unpluging it while the truck is running to see if the idle smooths out. If it does, then your MAF sensor maybe damaged.