Removal of stick-on add-ons
#5
RE: Removal of stick-on add-ons
With the WD40 or adhesive remover; do you peel it off first and then use the liquid to get the remaining residue off, or do you douse the area with it and let it seap on and underneath the adhesive before you try to peel it off?
Also, can you buy that adhesive remover at any Home Depot/Menards? (I know I have asked this before, but don't remember).
I forgot about this stuff until you posted it Doc.
Also, can you buy that adhesive remover at any Home Depot/Menards? (I know I have asked this before, but don't remember).
I forgot about this stuff until you posted it Doc.
#6
RE: Removal of stick-on add-ons
WD-40 is cheap and can be bought anywhere. Soak it down, let it soak in real good and gradually work the part off. Then soak the glue again and scrape off with a non-metalic object like your fingernails :-) I took the dealer logo off in no time this way. It also works on bugs, tar, gum and anything else that gets stuck to your paint. Totally harmless!
Off subject...I also use it on those rusty cast iron parts under the H3. Spray it on and let it soak in the rust, it'll stop it in it's tracks! Works on aluminum corrosion too and displaces H2O from places where you don't want it such as metal seams and inside your doors, just spray into the door drains.
Off subject...I also use it on those rusty cast iron parts under the H3. Spray it on and let it soak in the rust, it'll stop it in it's tracks! Works on aluminum corrosion too and displaces H2O from places where you don't want it such as metal seams and inside your doors, just spray into the door drains.
#7
RE: Removal of stick-on add-ons
Thanks for the info RJ! I appreciate it.
IK: I used a heat-gun to get the factory logos off but used the lowest heat setting. The paint was fine. I have a variable heat gun, so I can turn it down to hair-dryer mode. Give me a LITTLE credit here. I'm not THAT bad (ok, well sometimes).
IK: I used a heat-gun to get the factory logos off but used the lowest heat setting. The paint was fine. I have a variable heat gun, so I can turn it down to hair-dryer mode. Give me a LITTLE credit here. I'm not THAT bad (ok, well sometimes).
#9
RE: Removal of stick-on add-ons
I successfully removed some badging with mineral spirits and some fishing line. The fishing line (worked back and forth behind the badge) won't scratch the paint. Any remaining gummy residue came of with cloth and mineral spirits.
#10
RE: Removal of stick-on add-ons
The 3M adhesive remover come with a pointy squirt nozzel, you can attach that to pre soak the glue tape if you like. You can buy it at most auto parts and hardware stores. It is pricey, like $13.00......liquid gold. A little goes a long way and will not mess up automotive finishes. I typically use it to wipe off after removal of the emblem/tape etc. with a soft cloth. Great for decal removal, just put some on the cloth and hold it againstany stubborndecal letting it work in, and then if needed, with a little heat, should peel off.Wipe the residue clean.
I haven't used that stinky old WD40 in 10+ years. I found that CRC Power Lube is much better, does more and better.
"The next generation of multi-purpose lubricants. This all in one product quickly penetrates, lubricates, stops squeals, fights corrosion & loosens rusted parts. New & Improved formula is odor free." doesn't stain and improves electrical connections! I use it all over the boat. Salt water boating turned me on to this stuff.
Why don't I have stock in this stuff? Gotta call my broker.
I haven't used that stinky old WD40 in 10+ years. I found that CRC Power Lube is much better, does more and better.
"The next generation of multi-purpose lubricants. This all in one product quickly penetrates, lubricates, stops squeals, fights corrosion & loosens rusted parts. New & Improved formula is odor free." doesn't stain and improves electrical connections! I use it all over the boat. Salt water boating turned me on to this stuff.
Why don't I have stock in this stuff? Gotta call my broker.