In the event anyone wanted to see some recentered H1's. Military double beadlocks, with a new center to correct the back spacing. This is a pic I got from the shop that recentered mine. I would have done them myself, but since they will be on the road a bit, I wanted to make sure the runout was correct.

 

nice work, what are you putting them on?

BTW...where the hell you been?

 

They'll be going on my K5 trailrig. I've been collecting parts for this newest trailrig build up. I'm almost ready to start, just need to geta few more things bought, and I should be in the cussing and wrench throwing stage.. LOL. Total cost for these H1 BL's was 131.00 each. Not too shabby for some double beadlocks. And, of course they're built for performance, and not bling factor. I still need to powder coat them.

I've been a little busy with getting stuff for the K5. Plus as a moderator on an off road site, the main two admins were away for the holidays, and we had a "spammer frenzy" over there, so I was spending a lot of time there to delete the posts (**** links etc). I also, unfortunalty, had a couple of relatives (dads cousin, and my grandmother)who passed away (unrelated deaths) and had two out of town funerals to attend. I still poke my head in here and there to see what's going on.

 

sorry to hear about your family deaths...hope all is getting better for you.

Good luck on your k-5...how radical are you going?

 

Not too radical as far as lift and tire size. About 6" suspension, with either 38.5's or 39.5's.. depending. Should be a pretty flexy suspension. I'll relocating the rear mount of the front springs forward, and usinga slightly longer shackle to get plenty of travel. Lockers front and rear. Lots of HD parts in the 1 ton axles. Several little doodads here and there.

Maybe I'll try to post some follow up stuff here so you can keep up with it, once I get started on the build.

 

sounds like a cool rig......post some follow ups!!

 

Will do. I probably shouldn't have sold my last trailrig.. at least it was done. But, I got an unexpected offer (it wasn't for sale per say) that I really couldn't turn down. So, I had to start over from scratch. But I made enough off it to go a little more "all out" on this build. So far I've collected:

D60 & 14BFF
D60 4.88 gears
14bFF 4.88 gears
Install kits d60/14b
D60 Detroit Locker
D60 1410 yoke
14Bff 1410 yoke
NP 205/241 MOD 1410 yoke
NP 241 SYE kit
14bFF rear disc brake brackets
12 volt Air Compressor, on board
Ford Shock Towers
Soft-top (my old one)
D60 U bolts/studs
Longfield 300m axle joints
Bolt in steering brace
Hi-steer/X-over (arms, rod, d-link, ends)
1" zero rate (R)
4" Shackle flip
caddy calipers for rear disc
4340 moly 35 sp D60 inner shafts
4340 moly 35 sp stub shafts
Warn 35 sp prem hubs
6" 48" TC EZ Ride front springs
14 bolt plates
Pro Comp 15.5" travel ES 9000’s
Front Upper Shackle Bushing Kit
Dana 60 Kingpin Spring and Bushing kit
14 bolt FF U bolts for stock with 1" rates
PSC 1.5" x 8" Cylinder Ram w/ hardware & ends
H1 beadlocks (5)
56" rear springs
H3 tow hook & mounts
Hydro steer box cap
H1 centers & spare parts
Extended brake lines F/R
Steering box 2wd (for hydro assist)
Drivers side battery tray (for dual batts)
H1 recenter-rockrings-chem-dip
Diff cover D60 "rockcrusher"
" 14BFF "
Outer axle seals

Someday soon I'll get everything bought, and get it on. If life would just stop gettin gin my way.. LOL.

 

wow, from the parts inventory it's defininatly gonna be one hella rig!!

Do you think the chrome-moly shafts are worth the added cost? You talk to 3 guys and you get 3 different opinions.

I found a totalled 2007 Jeep JK rubi with d-44 front and back w/ electric diff locks...guy wants $1200 for both axles....2700 miles were on the clock.... I'm gonna have to pull out the ole credit card for them....someday they'll come in handy!

 

Yeah, I think moly shafts are worth it in most cases. The inner shafts of my D60 are 35 spline, stock. But the stub shafts are 30. So I upgraded them to D70 35 spline stubs, (which are also bigger in diameter, and stronger)and replaced both the stubs and inners with moly's when I did that. Moly allows the shafts to flex under shock loading (having a tire bounce up off the ground and come down hard and get traction). Usually something like that can cause a shaft to twist and break in one quick motion. But the moly actually allows the twist, and then springs back.. where the standard steel is too brittle, and snaps.

Axle manufacturers try to make the weak spots of the axle out close the hub ends for ease to the owner in the event of breakage. It's easier to get tothe hub, than deper into the axle. But since I'm only going torun abouta 39" tire, I don't see any need for weak spots. So, my axles are pretty much "overkill" for the tires I'll be running. But, I'm old school, and don't really care for trailered trail rigs. I still like driving my junk to the trail. So, I need it to survive, so I can get back home.

The Jeep D44's would be great. Especially if you're not going to be running massive tires. A small axle that is actually really strong is the old Toyota axles. The fronts have burfield joints, that are a bit weak, but you can get beefed up burfields.

 

A little powder coat.