Well I pulled up every forum on the window and lock situation. Had a loss of power from leaving an acces. plugged in and the battery went dead so I charged it and was on my way. Got to work and of course the driver window would not go down and the lock switch would not work nor the fob.
On past forums the magic answer was to unhook the battery terminals and touch them together and wait 5min on one forum and 30min on another forum so I did this and of course it did not work.
One thing the other forums did not answer was how much would a dealer charge (approx) to fix this problem. It would be nice to have my window down in the summer. By the way both fuses are good.
Some one also suggested to pull the switch panel that has all the controls for the door locks and windows but never said how to get the panel out.
Any help would be appreciated.

 

Yes this is a design oversite / limitation. I've had the pleasure of the same thing you speak of. Finally chose to remove the entire module from the door.
* lift gently with soft none maring plastic puddy kife on the actual edge of the entire module
*disconnect wires paying attention to order
*leave out over nite
*reinstall
I'd be very interested to know which wire the harness supplies pos. ang neg.
My thought is to solder and drill a small hole for a switch to act as a reset button.
Chris

 

I take it that this did work for you and corrected the problem??
Did you disconnect all the wires or just the lock and window wire which was mentioned in another forum.
By leaving it out overnight (what does this do?)
Thanks for giving me some more info on this problem.

When I use the fob I hear a clicking or relay trying to work on the fuse panel.
Also when I try to lock the car with the fob the passive lock lights up. It goes away when I push unlock on the fob of course it does not unlock or lock the car anymore.

 

I had this exact same problem when I recently replaced my battery. All I did was remove the drivers door switch and then put it right back in and everything worked fine.

 

Touching battery cable together is an urban legend, it does nothing..... except you might feel better thinking you did something.

The reason your driver door and door locks do not work can be found in the electrical diagram.

From my old post on this topic:

Easy fix. When you lost power from the positive side, your PCM freaked and you need to reset the driver side door PWR window and locks curcuit.

Check the manual for the fuse diagram (you have to flip the fuse diagram around so it is upside down to match the fuse locations). Take the cover off the underhood fuse box, pull the fuse for the driver's side pwr window #68, check it, and put it back if ok, do the same for the door locks fuse #8. Now pull and put back in relay #77 for the PCM.

Should work then.

https://www.hummerforums.com/forum/h...ece-@-$-15053/

 

Going out right now to pull 77 and see if this corrects this issue. I will let you know!
Thanks for the info and if it works I will cancel my appointment Mon at the dealer. By the way the driver switch panel is around 200.

 

Did you pull the whole assemble out or does just the switch pop out. I think you have to lift the whole panel out of the door.

 

Sorry Doc but no luck on this. Pulled 77 but no luck there. Pulled the switch assemble out with no problem and unplugged the blue and white connectors and I will let it sit overnight inside and plug it back in tomorrow morning like another forum said. If this doesn't work then I guess I will be making the one way hundred mile trip to get to a hummer dealer who knows what they are doing. Thanks again for the feedback on this problem again.

 

Thank goodness I didn't have to go through all of this when my battery died from leaving my phone charger plugged in and not driving the Hummer for a week... Is this a hit or miss thing or what? The only thing I found different than any other car I had owned was that the key will not come out of the switch when you have a dead battery. I got a boost from a neighbor and was on the road with everything working as it was supposed to.

 

Yes, I agree this is a hit and miss thing. Still it is a little better than my C5 corvette which was turning into a nightmare. You were lucky that everything still worked. I went in to start it up and my key would not come out either till I charged the battery and started the H3. I should be thankful that the key came out. I have now taken the whole switch panel out and we will see what happens when I put it back. A new one is over 200.00!!! I really did not expect anything less being a past Vet owner.