I agree that a synthetic blend is a waste and if you care about it it should be feed full synthetic.[/align]6 qts Mobil 1 as Costco $28. Nothing is more important than oil so get the best.[/align]

 

I did some research on synthetics back in my bracket racing days. My car was around 725HP with 14.1:1 compression and was turning 7800RPM in the lights. This was a .100 over 454 (477cid). Every 3rd weekend I needed to add a qt of oil. I was running Kendall "nitro 50" race oil per the machinists recommendations. The 3 oils I read up on were Red Line, Torco, and Amsoil. Mobil One was considered but I stayed away from it. Reason? It actually caused the engine to lose power. There was a test done in Super Stock and Drag Illustrated magazine as to whether or not synths were "snake oil" or for real.

Their test engine was a Top Sportsman style 540 making just under 1100HP. They baselined with the same Kendall I was using. The Torco actually made more HP as did the Red Line and Amsoil. Mobil One made 25 less HP than the straight Kendall! The other 3 made close to 50 more HP with the Torco right at +50. The research indicated that the plasticisor used in Mobil One, while good for wear, was bad for HP. Amsoil used a fully synthetic base stock like the other 2 with less of an "alcohol" content (for lack of the full tech term) and Torco used their own "MPZ" ingredient which contains a special blend of zinc.

So, what did I do? I decided on Amsoil 20 50 race oil. It was easy to get at the time, close in performance to the other 2 brands, and also got a great deal on it. What I noticed was the following, but keep in mind that when bracket racing it's impossible to have TOO MUCH INFO as in temp, barometer, humidity, wind direction, diet, well you get the point. My car went .050 quicker in all the same conditions and 2MPH faster! The same conditions being as in temp and the rest on varying days for dial-ins. My compression jumped 5psi in all 8 holes. That qt every 3rd weekend scenario was gone. The oil looked like trans fluid. Real pretty red color. It always looked like new and quit smelling like race fuel too. After about 60 passes I merely changed the filter and added the qt. After that I decided to see how far I could go with that oil in it as I figured to do a tear down at seasons end. I put a grand total of 168 passes on that oil with ZERO fault or loss in performance. The teardown revealed bearings that looked a week old. Keep in mind that this was a Chevy big block spinning 7800 RPMs at the end of a run, shifted at 7200, and launched at 5500 off of a trans brake. The car weighed in at 3545#. That's some serious abuse. OK abuse isn't right...serious FUN!

I added this story here just as a prequel to the fact that a full Amsoil switch over is in my H3s future. The only caution we need to be aware of is that in a used or "seasoned" engine it's advised that switching over reqires a higher viscosity due to the existing wear already present. Amsoil is able to go 12,000 miles in normal driving requiring only a filter change and another 12,000 before a full change. Severe duty and excessive dusty conditions like off-roading reqire a bit more frequent changes but not too much especially in well filtered and controlled crankcases. I also use Amsoil 2cycle in my sleds and see very little to no wear and less carbon on the exhaust power valves.

And before anyone asks, NO, I don't sell Amsoil! I hope you found this an interesting read.

 

OK Highlander...I just changed my oil about 12 hours ago with 5w30 Mobil One.Now you're making me feel bad I did!

 

I agree on the full senthetic!! It might be extra money but i love my H3 too much to go the cheap route!