TIRE WEAR, OIL WARNING


ive been thinking about checking tire wear on my 41000 mile stock 285's
and while driving home I got my very first oil change warning.


first the tires. I penciled a line on a stick in the groove on my spare and did it again on a tire on the ground.
the best I can measure is .50 on the new not used spare and .35 in on the used tire.
that's less than 1/3 wear in 40000 miles, .15 inch out of .50! I guess I will need to go another 40000 before I can get a new set huh.


now the oil. I change when I feel like it, before I get warned. usually after 4 months, often 5-6 and 4000 miles often 5000+.
today im at 4 months and 4000 miles. since I never got a warning before at longer intervals I assume the difference is the super cold and snowy weather, short trips,etc.


a few years ago napa had a sale on synthetic and I bought cases! I have just enuf left for this full change.


any tips on tranny change?

 

tires are wearing nice.. most check in 32nds with a gauge, at 3 different spots per tire, outside, center, and inside. . there are cheap tread gauges out there for you to monitor..


Oil monitor is by overall rpms at operating temperature, not mileage=more city driving, less miles between oil changes, more highway= more miles between oil changes...
I change mine, twice a year no matter what, and I only put a couple k miles a year on it.

Transmission should be flushed= 16+quarts dex 6 to do it.. GL

 

I reset the oil change computer everytime I change the oil and change the oil when the message comes up. sometimes it is at 7000 miles sometimes it is at 9000 miles. this is a sophisticated system and hasn't let us down at all. with over 160,000 miles on our h3. Trust the computer.

There are threads on here about transmission fluid change. Not too bad of a job.

 

also keep in mind you should not only monitor the tread/air pressure of your tires but keep an idea of how old they are. Most tire manufacturers recommend not using tires that are more than 5 years old I think. The manufacture date is imprinted in the sidewall. This should be especially relevant if you do strenuous driving or have drastic weather and environment changes, such as sudden temp changes or going from salty roads to sand dry conditions. Probably 99% of the time you will not have an issue, but keep in mind that the older a tire gets the harder the rubber gets and starts cracking, especially on spare tires, there are millions of trucks and SUV's out there that have full size spare tires that I would not want to use for any major driving because their very old tires.

 

without a doubt the worst vehicle I ever owned for messy oil changes. I love my h3 but hate the mess. ive done it prob a dozen times,made a special bucket cut to fit around and under the crossmember. it still goes all over. then the filter dumps the rest all over again. next time im parking in the field and just pulling the plug and walking away1.


then try to reset to change message, about 15 times. it still comes on at every start. I thought I did it b4 but I cant reset it now.
I guess its time to cover it with black tape like the time on an old vcr!


ill try it again tomorrow.


as for the tires,i don't care if they wear out now. id like to try some new ones ive heard about here.

 

Ive never had an issue with oil drainage, i just put an oil change box under the plug and it catches everything, then a quick wipe of the crossmember and done

 

"i just put an oil change box under the plug and it catches everything, then a quick wipe of the crossmember and done "


amazing!, on mine the oil shoots out about a foot with just a pan under. with my "catch all" bucket it hits inside but also hits the crossmember and runs back and drips all over. you must not change the filter since everyone talks about that mess!
you must just have nicer oil, more cooperative.


btw, I wonder why my quote tags don't work anymore? forum software or my computer?

 

I installed one of these. No more mess. Just stick a tube on and drain pan into a bottle with just a turn of a lever. They work good and are locked in the closed position.
http://www.qwikvalve.com/fumoto-f107n-valve.html

 

1. Turn the ignition to RUN with the engine OFF.
2. Press and release the reset stem in the lower center of the instrument panel (I/P) cluster until the OIL LIFE message is displayed.
3. Once the alternating OIL LIFE and RESET messages appears in the display, press and hold
the reset stem until several beeps sound. This confirms the OIL LIFE system has been reset.
4. Turn the key to lock.
If the CHANGE OIL message comes back on when you start the engine, the ENGINE OIL
LIFE system has not reset. Repeat the procedure.

Alternate Method
1. Turn the ignition key to RUN with the engine off.
2. Fully press then release the accelerator pedal 3 times within 5 seconds. Several beeps sound.
This confirms the oil life system has been reset.
If the CHANGE/OIL message comes back on when you start the engine, the engine oil life
system has not been reset. Repeat the procedure.

 

reset,got it, don't know how, lots of button pushes