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New to me 2007 H2 - What to repair first?

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Old Nov 19, 2021 | 04:42 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by calif phil
Love that color, have your truck inspected, if the lines are not rusty, then maybe they don't need replaced, the lines on my 2006 are fine. I went with a new radiator from the GM dealer as preventative maintenance, did new hoses and fluids at the same time.
Thanks. It was an Indiana truck for 14yrs so my expectation is that rust is pervasive.
 
Old Nov 19, 2021 | 05:08 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by oceanbrave
Could that extra button be a water heater? My friends truck has a stock water heater, so I assume there must be a switch somewhere.
Correct! Heated windshield washer 2008-09 was integrated in the hl switch. 25858427








 
Old Nov 19, 2021 | 11:47 PM
  #13  
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Congrats on a very clean stock rig. Keep it that way.

And no, that is not what you do first.

This late 07 glacier blue is a special edition with roof bar lights.

You HAVE TO remove those 4 black plastic covers. Do it now.
Because if you accidentally turn on that overhead switch, those covers will melt and pool on your roof and sunroof.

And buddy, it WILL happen, sooner or later. Mark my words. Dealer did that before we even picked up our Victory Red SE in 2007.
I did put clear headlight wrap on them, when I did the other headlights and driving lights.

Besides, if you need to use them quickly in the rain, you can't with the covers on. Wait.....never mind,
They are useless lights. Completely useless and low powered. Fortunately the manufacturer offers stronger LED replacements for that bar.

Next, relocate the air ride pickup onto the gas filler neck, after you flushed the mud out of the lines and filter. That is what kills these compressors. They suck in muddy water from right behind the RL wheel. Idiotic placement. Kills almost all air rides.


 
Old Nov 19, 2021 | 11:54 PM
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There was a recall, and most (except mine and very few others) did not escape that heated WW fluid gizmo to be yanked by GM due to fire hazard.

Likely your switch will not NOTHING. GM instructed techs to literally cut the wiring harness and tape it off. And to remove the WW fluid heater. Guys without an SE do not know about this.

The supplier went under, then got bought out by someone who was supplying these same units, but aftermarket. I got mine a decade ago from them: Alphatherm
There was also more than 1 version of the aftermarket unit form them, and it had to be programmed by the maker to work on the H2.
Maybe they updated that, as mentioned here:

https://www.hummerforums.com/forum/h...-wiring-39021/

I have to tell you that this heated windshield washer fluid feature is Excellent! Really removes the bugs or ice.

Look for it. The heater was located right in front of the WW fluid reservoir, and looks like a black plastic binocular case positioned vertically. Is it there?
It will not be if the recall was done by previous owner(s).
 

Last edited by finall; Nov 20, 2021 at 12:02 AM.
Old Nov 19, 2021 | 11:57 PM
  #15  
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Are your wheels chrome-peeling on the barrels yet?
These were made by Prime Wheels in California, and I spoke with them a month ago to see if they could run a batch of these OEM wheels, as they have been long-discontinued by GM> I last bought a set in 2018, and there were 110 in the Lansing, MI warehouse. They disappeared. Likely crushed. I am on our 3rd set, as we live on the Wet Coast, and anything chromed-aluminum corrodes.
 
Old Nov 20, 2021 | 07:52 PM
  #16  
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You HAVE TO remove those 4 black plastic covers. Do it now.
Because if you accidentally turn on that overhead switch, those covers will melt and pool on your roof and sunroof.[/QUOTE]

That is great advice, almost happened to me already. Virginia requires covers for the safety inspection but then I can take the covers off.

Originally Posted by finall
Next, relocate the air ride pickup onto the gas filler neck, after you flushed the mud out of the lines and filter. That is what kills these compressors. They suck in muddy water from right behind the RL wheel. Idiotic placement. Kills almost all air rides.
I have no idea how to do that so I'll have to investigate and thanks for the heads up. The compressors work fine and the air shocks hold air and I'd like to keep it that way. The shield below the compressors is severely rusted and on my list to replace.
 
Old Nov 20, 2021 | 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by finall
Are your wheels chrome-peeling on the barrels yet?
These were made by Prime Wheels in California, and I spoke with them a month ago to see if they could run a batch of these OEM wheels, as they have been long-discontinued by GM> I last bought a set in 2018, and there were 110 in the Lansing, MI warehouse. They disappeared. Likely crushed. I am on our 3rd set, as we live on the Wet Coast, and anything chromed-aluminum corrodes.
Yes, the chrome is peeling but not too bad but noticeable if you look for it. Are they too hard to have someone repair / re-chrome?
 
Old Nov 20, 2021 | 08:22 PM
  #18  
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Thanks for all the help so far on my new truck, you guys are great. I put some miles on it this week and I'm in love with the ride and power and comfort. I've had a '14 and now a '18 Jeep Wrangler but they are like driving a Prius compared to driving this rig around town. Why did it take me so long to own an H2?

Here are 2 pics from of the engine, one is of the rusted brake lines and the other is of the passenger side of the engine showing the rusted header that needs replacing sometime. The other side was just replaced by the dealer before I bought it.



 
Old Nov 20, 2021 | 09:49 PM
  #19  
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The carrier (large rusty steel plate) that holds the air compressor components is no longer available as a separate unit. You can remove the air ride, dismantle everything, re-powdercoat or paint the carrier, and reassemble. Lots of work and some know-how required. I recently replaced mine for over $2K USD with a brand new OEM dual-compressor unit.

Wheels can be re-chromed by any dependable plating shop if they do wheels (many do not). Most are done in California, as that is where chrome wheels live happily. They go to die in places that use salt or have moisture. Looks like your brake lines, etc. are corroded, which tells me the truck came from the salt belt or somewhere they use lots of salt?

A good way to minimize corrosion, is to wash the inside of the engine bay including the salty hoodliner, and pressure-wash underneath the vehicle a couple of times per year.
 

Last edited by finall; Nov 20, 2021 at 09:52 PM.
Old Dec 4, 2021 | 09:01 PM
  #20  
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Thanks for all the help. The mechanic has the hummer and is replacing the fuel pump, back brakes including the calipers, both serpentine belts and the window washer pump.

I took 2 pictures of each of the inside of the front wheel wells. Does anyone see something out of line besides the rust. Do I need suspension work or just leave it as it? Any help is appreciated.






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