I can't hear your vids on the computer tht I'm on but I will try another tonight.

I would get a cheap scanner and check for codes as others have mentioned, or you can go by most auto parts stores and they will read it for you.

Not withstanding all of that, have you run a compression test yet?

Tim

 

I have an obd2 scanner. I can take some readings & post them.
I haven't tried a compression test yet.

Like I said, I was under the impression that the torque converter was going. I'm still pissed about the money I sank into that. If it's the engine, I will just let it go & do the diesel conversion later. Replacing any major part of the engine will be big bucks.

 

Why not drop a 496 in there from a 3/4 ton 4x4 suburban? Would be much easier and cheaper than a computerized diesel. And you can get close to same year so electronics should be easier. Just a thought

 

No interest in a less efficient gasser, not enough power in comparison to the diesel options, & no option for bio-diesel (yes, that's a serious statement). Also, you still get 300k to 350k miles max on those engines. In the long run, it's not really any cheaper.

The Duramax LMMs drop in & are really not much work to have them communicate properly. Most of the electronics in the 08/09s work easily with them. The LMLs are more work, but can still be installed in 100% working order. The DEF fluid is off putting, so I'd stick to LMMs. Oh, they'd also pass emissions inspection. Not sure the 496 would.

 

Here's the two videos.

[/QUOTE]

I couldn't hear anything out of the ordinary in either video either, sorry.
And I didn't see anything shaking either. Not saying that you are making it up, just that your cellphone isn't picking it up. When my VVT valve went bad mine would idle really rough almost like it had a huge cam in it, and would shake worse than normal, but it was also throwing a P0011 code as well.

Maybe yours is on the way out, just hasn't thrown the code yet.

I'm not sure how sophisticated your scanner is, but see if you can look at the cam angle at idle and also at higher RPM's to make sure it is indeed switching like it is supposed to.

And I agree with you 10,000% on the gasser swap.
I'm thinking these guys need to drive a modified duramax and then come back and report

Nothing like full torque below 2,000 RPM's. And the reliability and fuel economy of a diesel engine to go with it.
Especially if your burning Bio.

 

The water pump pulley looks to be wobbling. I need to see if the crank is wobbling too.

My neighbor has a 2014 yukon denali w/ the same 6.2L. I took a look at his & the bottom pulley (crank) was wobbling, but the shaking in his tires/steering wheel was barely noticeable & he only knew about it b/c I pointed it out. Kind of interested. I might try to get a shot of it when I have the time (haven't had any time to set anything up w/ the gopro). I have other symptoms, but those will get video taped when I have the gopro running just how I like it.


So, at this point, it's possible that I remove the belt after diagnosing what is shaking. If it's just that whatever pulleys have gone bad (vehicle runs fine, despite the incessant shaking), that would be a cheap fix.

 

May be a dumb question. But haven't you tried to remove the belt and run it a few secfor a test without it . If a bad pulley it shouldn't vibrate anymore

 

I can try that something. I just haven't had a free solid our to get everything together to test it.

I will try that soon.

 

I copied this from the sticky at the top of the page...
Just a suggestion:
another common issue is the cage under the transfer case touching the exhaust pipe and creating a vibration that can be felt through the floor board when cruising ~1500 -2000 rpm. another symptom that can be easily verified by removing the undercarriage protection and trying to duplicate the problem

 

Great suggestion and easy to check. Gonna look at mine for just in case's.