Thanks I appreciate it. I have some driveline slack that I wasn't quite sure how to address but after hearing about your experience; motor mounts might do the trick. Also I'll drop the oil pan while I'm in there to seal up a leak I have around the edge of it.

 

Did you check to see if the motor jumps?
Get another person, put it in drive or reverse, hold the break & hit the gas (don't floor it). See if the engine jumps on the passenger side.




For anyone out there, what's the right torque converter for the 08/09 6l80?
Autozone's search is horrible & Dacco's info is wrong. It's listed for the 4L80 transmission. When I go to look at other models on their site, there's 2: DACCO B85JMBX & B85 JMBV

Here's an example of what is said to be right (every where lists it for the 4L80)
http://www.jcwhitney.com/dacco-dacco...ProductDetails

And can anyone advise me on a good flexplate model? I don't need/want anything overbuilt.

 

Maybe just order the OEM parts from a dealer. I've been pretty happy with the OEM parts I've needed.

 

Every parts site pushes me towards 4l60/65/70 torque converters, while I have a 6L80.

I can't find the part number. Even the mechanic's source (autozone) was pulling the DACCO w/ the 4L80 nomenclature. Unfortunately (and stupidly), the service manual doesn't list part numbers.

Maybe someone here would know the specs of the torque converter & confirm or deny what works?


Edit: the GM part is ACDELCO 17804387. It's almost 500 before core charge. Dacco is less than half. That's why I'm looking for an alternative part. I'm having a hard time finding specs on it to make sure that it's the same as the DACCO model.

 

2009 Hummer H2 Base AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION---- converter

http://www.tonkinonlineparts.com/sho...rimLevel=26075---flex plate
Booya.

 

Can you uprate anything whilst you're going through the hassle ?

 

That'll help. The ACDelco prices are insane though.
I confirmed that these torque units work with the 5.3L (makes sense) and other engines as well (I think the 4.8L). I'll post the models after I confirm they work.

Edit:

I got the Dacco torque converter for $282 (I get $100 back for core charge) & an ATP flexplate for $54.
Should come to about $230 for the two once I return the core.


Well, he already said it makes sense to replace the torque converter b/c we're already in there. $200 more is better than more labor if that's the problem too. Oil & filter for the transmission at the same time.

Is there anything else I can even really do, besides swapping out the trans? (I have NO interest in do that!)



I drove over to talk to the mechanic again and he & who works with him reiterated that I might we well replace the tranny fluid since most of it will come out during the process. I already have the filter & I just need more oil. More so, it's necessary more than anything.

While they are under there, they said to replace the crankshaft rear main seal & housing cover. It's cheap, easy to do and is a b*tch of a small project to do separately (again, same amount of labor). Picked that up for about $53 on amazon.

This isn't the most ideal way of going about it, but leaving the truck to shake is bad. The more I spoke with them about other symptoms I hear & feel, it's lines up with torque converter, possibly flexplate. I feel more confident about spending the money on this, now.

 

if nothing else you won't need to deal with the rear seal and torque converter seal for a long time.

 

On my 05 I have a shudder or small vibration at about 40mph and I was told it's the torque converter but it's so minimal that I've driven this way for 30k miles. One transmission guy is I know and who is well respected by me says he would just flush the trans fluid and also all he lines then put in fresh oil. He said sometimes that fixes the issue and you won't have to spend money on the torque. I know your vibration is much worse but just wanted to share.

 

Do you have any engine codes stores or pending?

Your vibration could be from the variable valve timing adjuster mechanism failing.
It would be code P0011. The valve is located behind the water pump. And the sensor iirc is towards the back of the engine. Both are under $50 each.

You should be able to test the VVT mechanism with a Tech 2 tool to see if it is operating properly and within spec.
There is a name for the valve which of course is eluding me right now lol.

But with your milage your probably at the point where it is starting to fail.

It's pretty common with the 6.2 motors.
Don't ask me how I know :-P