After removing the inner plastic fender, I found some aggressive stages of corrosion on some parts including the steering linkage. (images attached)

This will need cleaning and anti-rust painting. You will need a box of these to put the fender back in-->

 

My H3T how has a 100% aluminum radiator and is back on the road.

This should solve the leaking plastic/aluminum radiator seal faults. I did a chemical cleaner flush, city water flush, and a distilled water flush an still ended up at 0.33 Volts with the bottled 50/50 Dex-cool and de-mineralized water mix.

Here are the electrical current checks for electrolysis corrosion and my notes -->

 

My radiator is leaking. PepBoys told me $900 to install a Chinese Radiator. WTF! How much do OEM radiators run and what is a fair price to change out? I just don't trust people anymore.

 

Gstyleforyou.com has a CNF aluminium radiator for the H3/H3T. Made in the USA.

 

Sorry Tainter, that link didn't work out.

www.gstyle4u.com is the correct link.

 

I didn't put that "aluminium" link in the forum has ads that are imbeded with key words. Kind of a pain in the ****.

 

bcc-1701, now a year later how's the radiator working for you? Very good thread with the pics & video, thank you.

 

Good and Bad News and Prayers

The all Al Rad was the long term fix. I'd still recommend running ground cables off the transmission radiator lines to help reduce the un-stoppable slow internal corrosion with the automatic trans models.

Later, I found others major parts needing replaced due to corrosion in the drive train, steering, and suspension system that was out of my budget to fix so I sold her sadly.

My H3's problem was the lazy prior owners never fresh water flushed areas under the truck. By the corrosion growth they had driven in high salt content water quite a bit. The southern MD dealer I bought her from did a good job cleaning away any indication of visible oil leaks and rust from my underside inspection.