Dang, I love H3T's. I'm hoping to pick one up at the end of the year, Black please.

 

NO TORSION KEYS! Just crank the bars. You dont really even need new shocks, but you will need bump stops. I wouldnt get two inch shackles unless you carry a lot of weight in the back. They make .5 inch and 1.25 inch versions. The .5 inch might be enough.

 

Well the only reason I want new shocks is to have the extended length out of them so I dont max out the factory shocks. I am worried about getting the shackle in the rear because I dont want the rear to be higher than the front. Is there enough adjustment in the factory keys to not suffice ride quality and get 2-2.5", I already cranked them up a little to fit the 35s and it rides bouncy in the front...

 

The length on the front shocks is different, but you can add a 1/2 inch nut on the stud to act as a spacer and the shocks will be identical in length and range of motion. The rear wont need a 2" shackle. Maybe 1.25". There is enough factory motion to go up like 4 inches in the T-bars, but dont do it that much. The reason it is bouncy is because you dont have the new bump stops.

 

good looking h3's

 

So you think I should get the 1/2" Bumpstops (found a user on here selling a set) and just space out the factory shocks? I thought the Bilsteins might be a better route just because they are made for that application...From what Ive read a shackle only gives a lift of half of its length. Every shackle I found says its a 2" I dont know if the company means its a 2" shackle itself, which would net a 1" lift, or if its a 2" lift...

 

Bumpstops get rid of all the nosedive when braking or going over bumps, They make a world of difference. Might as well put in the Bilsteins and do it right, Probably need shocks anyway and they have a better feel than the stockers.
Shackles, I believe all of them give half of what they say. I'll need to put in a set as well with the Rancho, Rear tire and all the other gear in the back are giving it a bit of droopy butt syndrome.

 

1/2 inch bumpstop is what you need. The shock thing is up to you, but just letting you know that is something you can do if you want to save money. I spaced mine out and it retains the factory adventure package shocks. Also, stock shocks have an internal bump stop.

A shackle does give half of its lift, but the advertised length will be the amount of lift. A 2" shackle will be 4 inches longer. Warrior shackles is what a lot are using, no complaints yet from me. They come in 1/2 inch and 1.25 inch lengths (actual lift).

 

Thanks for the help guys!! I think I am planning on picking up the Bilstein front shocks, rear shackles, and 1/2" Bumpstops. So just out of curiosity, what would be the difference on using new torsion keys vs cranking the stock ones after all this is installed?? The shackles I found are http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Humme...Q5fAccessories
But they say 2", I don't know/think that I will have enough adjustment in the front to level it out with a 2" lift in the rear, any input? If this is the case, I will just do the Warrior 1.25 I guess...How do the Bilsteins ride?

 

The factory keys have plenty of adjustment in them and you will save money by not getting aftermarket keys (that you will have to adjust anyways).

One thing to think about is you are going to crank the front to "level" it right? The rear is already higher than the front. To level an unloaded vehicle, the front will be cranked to near its safe limit with the rear in the factory configuration. I added the shackles beacuse I was loaded down with crap and wanted to bring the rear back to factory.

I dont know about the shackles on ebay, but I used these:
http://www.tellico4x4.com/product_in...ducts_id/38976
They look heavier than those on ebay, and the comment on "No welds to break" make me suspicious as welds are often stronger than the metal it joins.

If you want to add the shackles to an unloaded vehicle, you wont get the front up to that level, unless you actually buy a lift kit.