Check these out, they are great resources.

Changing Tires on Hummer Wheels

If your tire has a runflat in it...I am almost positive its a two piece runflat

Two-Piece Runflats for One-Piece Wheels

You can get these apart with regular tools, but you can not get them tight enough when you try to put them back on.

I have heard mixed reviews on if runflats are required. I do not believe they are, most people bash the two piece runflat design as is.

 

You hear air because you must disconnect both CTIS valves for that wheel set (fronts or rears). If one tire has its CTIS valve engaged then it will shoot its air out to the side you are unscrewing. It is a 3/4 inch open end to disconnect the CTIS valve at the gear hub. You disengage the valve by pushing IN the silver tab and pulling out the outer CTIS valve body.

That is a military single piece rim. It may have a magnesium or rubber runflat. It will not have a beadlock. Just unbolt the two halves of the runflat to remove it once you have broken down the tire bead on both sides. There is a turnbuckle type bolt that hold it together. If you reinstall the runflat, you want the have both halves with the same gap size between them or it will be out of balance.
Gil

 

Hey Gil,

Thanks once again for all your help everyone...

Here is my main problem....

I do not have a tire machine and cannot just pop my bead off by myself to see if I even have runflats...

But assuming I have 2 piece runflats, and the tire shop does not want to remove and reinstall or want to do it at an ungodly price,

WOULD I be alright if I have them install the bridgestone MT/R's without the runflats?


I already plan on removing CTIS covers, and removing the Disconnect Fitting for the shop so all they have to do is remove lug nuts, take off tires, mount new, and then I should be good to go...

But how important is it that I retain and use the original runflat...?



And bad news here.... The quick disconnect tabs work on rear just fine... But here is what I noticed on front...

1. Front Drivers Side Disconnect Tab (was stuck, so I sprayed with WD-40). Tab now "works" but doesnt sit flush with the fitting. Air is not escaping, but it doesn't sit flush as the others do... I press it in as if to make it CLICK, but nothing clicks...

2. Passengers side disconnect tab - This one sits flush with the wheel, however when I pop the tab, air begins to immediately race out... It also does not "click" back into place, but rather I have to hold tab down, fit it back, and then forcefully close the tab, therefore sealing it back up...


So I guess I cannot do anything with my tires until I have proper disconnect tabs on both sides in the front? Can someone please confirm this?

 

I prep my tires when I take it to a shop by removing the CTIS assembly and placing a simple tank valve in the rim. A tank valve can be found at most hardware stores. It has a NPT thread pattern. I THINK the proper size is 1/4 inch. I do this on my truck which has 17 inch alloy split rims so the tire shop can balance the tires on their machine. By replacing all the CTIS with tank valves, you could then either rebuild the valve or have time to replace them. CTI Quick Disconnect Repair This link shows how to repair the valves.

You do not need runflats, they are an option.
Gil

 

Just so it is said .... you always use either Teflon tape or liquid Teflon on all CTIS wheel component threads to prevent air leaks.
Gil

 

I prefer the liquid teflon.