help! $2260 repair estimate 2008 H3
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 8,980
From: C-Town
Thanks for all the response, really gives me some ideas on what to do next. I crawled underneath to take a look, and I can see where the rotor is scraping the caliper, but the brake lines and everything else seems OK for now. I could see replacing rotors and pads, but everything else seems like the dealer is trying to make money. Here's a pic, what do you think?
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,356
From: Connecticut
I get almost all of my parts there.
Super Moderator
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 13,083
From: Boat Town USA MI
To check if there is a caliper about to seize: pry back the caliper piston with a screwdriver, or remove and compress the caliper piston with a pair of slip joint pliers. If the piston doesn't move, its "about to seize"!
30+ years in automotive repair, the same occurs to this day.
BTW, I had a caliper on my rig, that was "about to seize", would not compress, so I replaced it!
When you depress the brake pedal, the brake caliper piston pushes the inboard pad against the brake rotor, and pulls the outboard pad against the brake rotor, when you release the brake pedal, the brake pads should release from the brake rotor, if not, you will have a brake drag.
Back to the op, I replaced all 4 brake rotors (cross drilled /slotted) front and rear brake pads with ceramic brake pads, Both front brake calipers(loaded with pads & hardware) for ------->
UNDER $400.00 + I have an extra set of front pads.
I'm going to walk through my shop now and see if there are any light bulbs about to burn out.
IMHO cross drilled/slotted rotors are NOT what you want for an H3 unless it is purely a street queen. Mud, dirt and crud just pack in the holes and slots, and they just munch brake pads. They are great for wet brake fade, but nobody I know is road racing an H3 in the rain.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,356
From: Connecticut
IMHO cross drilled/slotted rotors are NOT what you want for an H3 unless it is purely a street queen. Mud, dirt and crud just pack in the holes and slots, and they just munch brake pads. They are great for wet brake fade, but nobody I know is road racing an H3 in the rain.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 8,980
From: C-Town
BS. If the piston doesn't move it is already seized. This ain't rocket science, and even rocket scientists can't predict the future....
I'm going to walk through my shop now and see if there are any light bulbs about to burn out.
IMHO cross drilled/slotted rotors are NOT what you want for an H3 unless it is purely a street queen. Mud, dirt and crud just pack in the holes and slots, and they just munch brake pads. They are great for wet brake fade, but nobody I know is road racing an H3 in the rain.
I'm going to walk through my shop now and see if there are any light bulbs about to burn out.
IMHO cross drilled/slotted rotors are NOT what you want for an H3 unless it is purely a street queen. Mud, dirt and crud just pack in the holes and slots, and they just munch brake pads. They are great for wet brake fade, but nobody I know is road racing an H3 in the rain.
Brake lockup up, drag, overheating, pulling, etc....
The brake caliper piston can still move outward (not seized) however not retract properly.
Btw, a pressure washer cleans the the drilled rotors fine.
I can verify that my H3 with drilled rotors, has better braking ability, and will come to a complete stop in a shorter distance, over the rotors I removed.
Hey x2 Hummerz 's Btw, a pressure washer cleans the the drilled rotors fine.
I can verify that my H3 with drilled rotors, has better braking ability, and will come to a complete stop in a shorter distance, over the rotors I removed.[/QUOTE]
and I only got drilled because I found them cheaper.
I can verify that my H3 with drilled rotors, has better braking ability, and will come to a complete stop in a shorter distance, over the rotors I removed.
[/QUOTE]and I only got drilled because I found them cheaper.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 6,126
From: SE Michigan
Wow, you carry a pressure washer with you on the trail and stop after every water crosssing, pebble strewn trail, mud puddle, washout, etc? That seems like a whole lot of extra time and trouble to have the slotted and drilled rotors. Doesn't sound like much fun. As you claim to be an automotive mechanic you will have to agree that a stone cought in the drilled portion of the rotor will in fact wear a groove pretty quickly into the pad as it passes by it 5 to 7 hundred times per mile. Then the groove in the pad will cause less overall breaking and eventually lead to fissures in the pad which will lead to cracks and so on until the pads AND rotors need to be replaced.
If you don't wheel your HUMMER they would definitely be a good option. We wheel our rigs so I'll stick with the OEM rotors and pads in order not to have to stop and clean all 4 of them out every 5 minutes and spend more time enjoying the trails.
If you don't wheel your HUMMER they would definitely be a good option. We wheel our rigs so I'll stick with the OEM rotors and pads in order not to have to stop and clean all 4 of them out every 5 minutes and spend more time enjoying the trails.
Last edited by TAINTER; Sep 19, 2014 at 09:17 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 749
I can vouch for Centric H3 rotors and pads, OEM performance and durability for almost half the cost of even internet sourced Delco parts.
Centric pad sets come with all new stainless and teflon coated shims just like the factory parts. Their rotors also have an attractive black rust proof finish that even holds up against NJ road salt.
Centric pad sets come with all new stainless and teflon coated shims just like the factory parts. Their rotors also have an attractive black rust proof finish that even holds up against NJ road salt.
