I noticed what sounded like a brake sensor scrape for the right side of the H3 so I took it over to a Chevrolet service center for inspection. Three hours later they told me that the front and rear brake system need to be replaced. The brake pads, calipers, rotors are all corroded and about to seize, all the hoses are dry rotted. $2260.00


It's a 2008 H3 with 72,000 miles


Is this normal? HELP!

 

If you are in Maryland I will do it for $800 or less

 

That sounds like your are about to get ripped off to me. Mine's an 08 and I've replaced pads a couple times and front rotors once, and the rotors didn't really need to be replaced. I kept the originals to have them turned for the next time. I'd pull a wheel off and inspect it yourself, this is why I rarely allow anyone to touch my vehicles......dealerships = stealerships.

 

pros do not turn rotors list price for rotors is under $100 pad are round $100 Labor $90 are you sure the dealer didnt price brakes for a h1 Pads ,rotors labor for h1 is under $1000 I done total brakes on 50 plus H1s some one wants to go on vac on your dime.

 

Wasn't there a service notice/recall for H3's on winter salted roads? It may be a free fix for you.

 

This is about $700 for parts (IF you really need new parts) and at most a 4 hour job if I did it myself.
Just because something is "corroded" does not mean it can't be cleaned up and reused. Dealers can't be bothered, they just throw new parts at it.
I hate dealers.

If you cannot DIY then find a good independent mechanic.
Dealers are the LAST place to take any vehicle for repair.

 

This is why the DEALER IS THE LAST PLACE TO TAKE A HUMMER FOR WORK!!!!!


Anyways, your dealer is full of chit, there was a TSB about replacement of brake lines when excessively corroded. They are a "dealer", did they bother to tell you that???

If they can predict when a brake calipers are "about to seize" then they should be able to jump into the business of predicting the future lotto numbers, or bringing back the dead. I've had more than on car 40+ years old, corroded calipers, no seizing. Like bunger said, instead of taking a bit of time to clean them up and carefully inspect, just throw your $$ at some new parts and send you on your way.

Go to a reputable local brake shop.

 

i do not where but you are located but 4 $2200 i will pick up fix and deliver .What a rip off

 

Thanks for all the response, really gives me some ideas on what to do next. I crawled underneath to take a look, and I can see where the rotor is scraping the caliper, but the brake lines and everything else seems OK for now. I could see replacing rotors and pads, but everything else seems like the dealer is trying to make money. Here's a pic, what do you think?

 

Happens all the time, usually with vehicles that are not driven all the time. The caliper pistons do not move as they did when they were manufactured. Looking at the brake pad wear will indicate the problem: inboard pad worn more than the outer pad, indicates a brake caliper (most common) or brake hose (not so common) issue.

To check if there is a caliper about to seize: pry back the caliper piston with a screwdriver, or remove and compress the caliper piston with a pair of slip joint pliers. If the piston doesn't move, its "about to seize"!

30+ years in automotive repair, the same occurs to this day.

BTW, I had a caliper on my rig, that was "about to seize", would not compress, so I replaced it!

When you depress the brake pedal, the brake caliper piston pushes the inboard pad against the brake rotor, and pulls the outboard pad against the brake rotor, when you release the brake pedal, the brake pads should release from the brake rotor, if not, you will have a brake drag.


Back to the op, I replaced all 4 brake rotors (cross drilled /slotted) front and rear brake pads with ceramic brake pads, Both front brake calipers(loaded with pads & hardware) for ------->

UNDER $400.00 + I have an extra set of front pads.