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H3 Tweeter replacement wiring question

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  #1  
Old 05-12-2009, 10:24 AM
DarinM's Avatar
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Default H3 Tweeter replacement wiring question

All, I'm planning on replacing both front and rear speakers this weekend with new components up front, and 2 ways in the rear doors. My question is on the front components. The replacements have external crossovers that will need to be wired in... What I'm not sure on is the wiring for the front speakers. Are there seperate leads from the factory head unit going to both the Pillar mounted tweeter and the door speaker ? or is it a single wire that goes to the door, then to the tweeter ? I'm trying to figure out where to mount the crossover.

Thanks in advance !
 
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Old 05-12-2009, 10:27 PM
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i just replace my front and rear doors with infinity reference speakers and i just used a gm harness that i bought from best buy and i had to do a slight modification for it to work. it does not fit in to the hummer cause the harness has a lip on the side but if u take scissors u can cut the lip off and it will snap right in to place. the tweeters i replaced with infinity reference 1021t and i had to wire those up. i cut the clip off the wires from the hummer and then cut the connections off the new tweeter and just wired them. the front passenger side tweeter had wire color teal and purple and the driver side had wire color of yellow and black just use a tester to see which is negative and which is positive and wire together and then electrical tape them and your done. i wish i could remember which was which but don't so i don't wanna guess and tell u wrong so be safe and test .the infinity tweeters fit perfectly in the pillar and i needed no modification at all and the same went with the 4 door speakers they just lined up and put the 4 screws back in from the old ones. this was so easy to do. did this on a 2006 H3 hope it helped
 
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  #3  
Old 05-12-2009, 10:34 PM
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and i realized u are do components and i did not wanna deal with all that crap so i just replaced the 6 speakers and it took 30 min to do all 6. i cant help u with the components or cant even suggest were to mount the box. u probably will need to do some cutting cause there is not much behind the door panels. in fact u have to watch what rear speakers you use. i put in shallow speakers cause not much will fit the rear doors, my first choice of speakers only fit in the front and i wanted all the same so i had to find a set that would fit in front and rear and i went with the infinity reference shallow speaker. good luck and plane on a bit of time to do the component job
 
  #4  
Old 05-13-2009, 06:18 AM
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Believe it or not, there is a ton of space behind the radio, above the cross frame bar to mount component crossovers. Placing them inside the door panels is not the best idea based on the fact the door panels can retain moisture. Not so good for electronics.

Lucky is right about the harness adapter for the door, these will makes things a snap for the mid range speaker install. It's ok to use the factory wiring for that application. However, we DO NOT recommend using the factory wiring for the tweeters, they have an in line noise reducer installed. Removal of the plastic pillar moldings is a snap, one screw each side, then pop off. We like to keep things stock looking so we do not recommend drilling out the mounting space for the new speaker. Simple hot glue the new tweeter onto the molding. This will allow you to replace or return your system to factory if you ever found it neccessoary to do so. Most people scoff at the mention of hot glue, but used properly, it can be very usefull! In the past ten years of custom install work, hot glue has become a life saver for close quarter condition mounting, noise deadining applications, or places where screws are a bad idea.

If you use glue or velcro to mount you crossovers behind the radio, you can run your wiring directly from the head unit and then easily into the factory wiring harness adapter. They simply run new wiring throught the dash and up each side of the A pillar for the tweeters.

The shorter the distance traveled for wiring the better. We actually have a 4 guage power supply that runs through the firewall and directly behind the radio head unit on our H3. Both front crossovers are carefully mounted above and behind the radio. we even had enough space to install a 2 farad capacitor vertically beside the radio on the other side of the steel side plate near the steering wheel. This way all of the power wire ran for both amps, one under each front seat, can run directly under the center console.

Components for the rear may be overkill. Finding a good speaker that has a directional tweeter would be a great alternative. We used Polk Momo components and matching standard 6.5's with a tilting adjustable tweeter for the rear. even with a 1000 watt sub amp and twin 7500 12" subs, our highs are clear as a bell!
 
  #5  
Old 05-13-2009, 08:21 AM
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Wow !... Great info guys ! I'm shocked at just how much room there in the dash (crossover and Caps !!!) ! I'm planning on doing the upgrade in phases. I'm putting in MB Quart components up front and 2 ways in the rear. I almost ordered Polks but decided on the Quarts from past experience. I have the Polk Momo in my S2000 which sound awesome. Hopefully I didnt make a mistake there (since the H3 is my wifes ride).
Just to keep things clean, I think I'll go with your suggestion of putting the crossovers in the dash and running new wires to the pillars for the tweeters then use the GM adapters for the doors.
Phase 2 will be a new double din head unit, Phase 3, Amp and sub.. I want a clean install for the sub(s) with no boxes in the rear.
 
  #6  
Old 05-14-2009, 06:04 AM
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Mb Quart is an excellent speaker. The upside is a crisper, cleaner sound. The down side is they are not quite as durrable in the long run compaired to the near bullet proof Mommo's. Just make sure to adjust them for clarity with out a sub running to avoid distortion.

when it comes to subs and the absence of space consumption, your options are few. JL audio makes a ten inch factory sub replacement than does a fair job. This will only fit properly if you have the factory Monsoon system. Monsoon radio units only have on storage space in the rear. Non amped units have two rear cargo pockets. The sub replaces the space under the pocketless cover. It will not fit if you have a non amped system without a lot of cutting.

Some have placed a custom built box in the rear hatch. It doesn't look bad, but will cost a bundle and leaves you without a place to stick the jack. Plus sus that face forward lose a bit of punch. We like our music kinda loud, so two 12" MTX 7500 series subs in a standard matched box do the trick for us. It isn't fancy, but gets the job done and allows us to remove the subs if needed for space or at least adjust the position if needed. We like the MTX sub and mono amp line because they take a beating and still hammer out good bass. there are better options out there for clarity such as extant or Rockford, but MTX has always done a good job. But never use them for highs, they sound like crap! even the four channel amps are muddy.
 
  #7  
Old 05-27-2010, 04:13 AM
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BrickWurx--I have ALWAYS been a fan of Polk MoMo speakers. Have had them in my last 3 vehicles and last 2 boats. I want to continue the trend and see you have done what I want to do. polk website shows the mm651 as not fitting in the rear door. I was actually considering just putting a set in the fronts as well rather then wrestling with the tweeter. Did you have to modify the rear for yours to fit?
What Ohms are the MoMo's?
What amp is running yours?
Did you dynamat your truck? I am getting slaughtered by peeps about installing 2 kicker cvx 12's and not dynamating the whole truck........WTF?
 

Last edited by wet_rat; 05-27-2010 at 04:22 AM.
  #8  
Old 08-07-2010, 05:59 PM
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what is the cost (approx) of the replacement sub woofer amp for H3 hummer rear panel? I wanna b prepared for the cost & hopefully not shock. Also any recommended store for best price? Thanks in advance..Howard the Hummer
 
  #9  
Old 08-08-2010, 03:02 AM
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Wet Rat. We didn't Mat the truck for the first few months, Big mistake. The back end is a rattle box! I think we spent more than two bills and two days to drop out the headliner and side to fix the rattle. Ya gotta pull the rear seats, total pain. As for the Mommo's, ours had a spacer in the packaging. It was a very tight fit, but we got them in. Components up front, directionals in rear. Had to go with last years models for the back. I don't think mommo's come in directionals for this year.
 
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