can you explain a little? id like to know about this,if/when it gets me!

 

This is from full size GM trucks. I think the H3's are similar. If this is wrong someone correct me. There is a cover just behind the steering wheel that can be split in half. Remove the lower half. Get your head under the steering column and look at where the key lines up and there should be a tiny hole with a steel pin up inside the hole. With the key in the on position, push the pin in. The pin will only push in when the key is installed and in the on position. A small screwdriver should work. While holding the pin in, grab your key and pull it out. The lock cylinder should come with the key. Make sure all your accessories are off because the ignition switch is still in the on position and will drain the battery. With the cylinder removed you can turn the key counter clockwise and pull the key out. If you can't pull the key out, that is your problem. To reinstall, put the key in the cylinder and turn clockwise. Roughly about the on position, the pin should push in with finger pressure. Then reinstall the lock cylinder. I hope this helps you out.

 

@wr3nche4d Thanks for the suggestion. I will look at that. I am taking it to my regular mechanic this Thursday for service and to fix this problem.

Update: Yesterday on a whim I decided to reconnect the battery and take my normal Sunday drive. Driving the H3 is relaxing for me. It ran well and when I got home I was able to take the key out as usual. Weird. I'm still taking it to the shop Thursday.

 

Did you ever bother to answer my question from before??? about the battery terminal connectors? So.... do you?

 

I still have the crappy terminals. I'm going to get those changed out as well. Might as well while it's in the shop.

I also tried driving our other car for a few days. I have to admit, I missed the truck and started driving it again. The key is coming out now, but I fear it will get stuck again so I am having the shop fix it and replace the battery terminal connectors.

 

Thank you for that answer, now I can help.

You are going to have the shop fix what?

The key stuck in the ignition is GM's way of telling you, your battery is dead.... OR, the voltage is so low, inconsistent, fluctuating beyond what the PCM finds to be acceptable, that the PCM & BCM think it is dead. This happens when you have a poor connection at the battery. This is what a quality aftermarket set of battery terminal connectors will correct.

If I were you, I'd replace the battery terminal connectors first and before I would take it to a shop to fix some other thing that is not broke. There is no absolute guarantee that the battery terminals are your one and only problem, but it is an easy and inexpensive way to rule out that known issue once and for ever. Always start with the easy stuff.

 

a dealer will likely replace the cables, same as stock. you want solid aftermarket connectors

 

Thanks Doc. I will replace the terminal connectors. I am going to pick some up tomorrow and have my mechanic do the change. I don't take this to the stealership anymore. I have a solid mechanic who does excellent work when it is beyond my skill level, or my schedule is crazy.

 

Update:

I replaced the terminal connectors with Stinger Terminals as recommended. The problem of intermittently not being able to take the key out of the ignition persists. I am taking the truck to the stealership tomorrow for the recall on the blower resistor and this issue. I am hoping its just the park switch sensor or the ignition lock solenoid.

 

What we finally found out at the stealership was the ignition lock solenoid had a broken wire. The harness and solenoid were replaced. It cost me $321. That's the last time I go to the stealership. My regular mechanic suspected the same but I had to go the the dealer for the recall fix. I hope this helps someone who may run into the same problem.