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H3 Alpha Brake Upgrade

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Old May 6, 2011 | 08:55 AM
  #1  
Draketh's Avatar
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Default H3 Alpha Brake Upgrade

So when I first got my truck about 10k ago the inspection sheet I got from the service department said something like 60% front 50% rear. I've never really been a huge fan of the brakes on my truck to be honest, I always wish I had a little more stopping power without having to go so far down on the brake pedal.

Can anyone recommend some decently aggressive brake pads that won't be toast in 10k miles or eat my rotor alive?

Also, as long as my rotors aren't warped and don't need to be turned or replaced should I just stick with what I have? I don't really see the merit of drilled or slotted rotors unless you're doing track days, I've seen turbodeisels that stop on a dime with slab rotors.
 
Old May 6, 2011 | 10:57 AM
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neverendingproject's Avatar
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Brake earlier.
 
Old May 6, 2011 | 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by neverendingproject
Brake earlier.
This is one solution, but with my new 35" tires its gotten even worse. My concern isn't about stopping at a light or stop sign. My concern is sixteen year old Susie McTextalot who stomps her brakes at the last minute because she's not paying attention, or pulls out in front of me.

Insurance companies don't total your loved one and buy you a new one.
 
Old May 6, 2011 | 11:41 AM
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Bigger tires add more rotational mass to be sure. On any of the rice rockets we built we went with wilwood calipers/larger rotors to stop on a dime. Expensive but they work, on the last miata, you touch the brakes and your picking your face off the steering wheel Don't know what they make, if at all for a 3.
 
Old May 6, 2011 | 11:43 AM
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Default Susie McTextalot ,,,?

u gotta watch ure back for her! she wont see ANYTHING till she smashes into,,something. u gatta stab the gas!
active cell phones should disable autos they are in
 
Old May 6, 2011 | 11:53 AM
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My Alpha with gear and skids, beefed up UCP and rock rails, brush guard and winch weighs in at a hefty 6080 lbs. The brakes seem adequate to me but I don't run up on things before jamming on the brakes. Sure there will be sudden instances but I feel like it would throw me thru the windshield without my seat belt on if I really jam them on. I have hit them hard a few times but the anti-lock works and it hunkers down pretty quick without tire skid.
If you really think you have an issue you should have the brake pump checked or like someone else suggested, brake earlier and leave more room between you and the vehicle in front. Worn pads will take more pedal travel in some cases. Sounds like you brake hard alot. You could have glazed over the pads by overheating them frequently and replacement would be the best option with a slight turn of the rotors to take any glaze or grooves off of them.
Drilled and slotted rotors have less surface area for the pads to contact.
My other vehicle is a Dodge Cummins 3/4 ton and I tow alot. I get used to the hang back, let people swerve in front of me, let off the throttle and only use the brakes to come to a complete stop whenever possible. Pads last longer and I still get to where I am going even if it is a few car links back.
The H3 is a heavy vehicle, unlike a sports car!
Instead of slotted and grooved rotors just cool your brakes off more often, of course they don't work so great right after doing this until they dry some.
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Last edited by Hunner; May 6, 2011 at 12:04 PM.
Old Sep 23, 2016 | 04:10 PM
  #7  
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Default brake upgrade

stainless brake lines , fluid should be flushed every couple years , fresh calipers. got 22s with 35s and just need a little extra also.
 
Old Sep 26, 2016 | 08:10 AM
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This Thread was last posted in more than FIVE YEARS ago.

Why dig up old threads?????
https://www.hummerforums.com/forum/n...bumping-23220/
 
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