found my rad leak
i thought most were on the engine side of the top plastic. mine is on the driver side,grill side and hidden till it got worse. now i can push it and see a slight seepage about 4-5 inches long.
ill try slight draining to dry it. then sand blast and epoxy with wire mesh.
that worked on a car years ago so we will see. ill get pix and post asap.
if no go i need advice on a good rad. my main concern is the tranny cooler quality so im relieved that i actually have an outside leak!
if needed should i go for oem?, where to buy?
ill try slight draining to dry it. then sand blast and epoxy with wire mesh.
that worked on a car years ago so we will see. ill get pix and post asap.
if no go i need advice on a good rad. my main concern is the tranny cooler quality so im relieved that i actually have an outside leak!
if needed should i go for oem?, where to buy?
That's exactly where mine was cracked.
I bought at new OEM AC Delco radiator at Rockauto.com for about $225 plus shipping.
I have a local radiator shop near me that is going to repair my old one by installing a new plastic top tank for about $75, then I'll have a spare.
I bought at new OEM AC Delco radiator at Rockauto.com for about $225 plus shipping.
I have a local radiator shop near me that is going to repair my old one by installing a new plastic top tank for about $75, then I'll have a spare.
Check out this thread over on H4O. This would be the direction I'd go if I needed to replace my radiator.
CDF Radiator Finally Here!!
CDF Radiator Finally Here!!
Check out this thread over on H4O. This would be the direction I'd go if I needed to replace my radiator.
CDF Radiator Finally Here!!
CDF Radiator Finally Here!!
Nice radiator and write up.
heres the first of three layers of epoxy and mesh. test soon. i gave it 4 hours to set up
im temp on dial up so? might not get pix?
i might buy one,oem, just to be ready!
im temp on dial up so? might not get pix?
i might buy one,oem, just to be ready!
Last edited by happythree; Oct 26, 2015 at 06:15 PM.
well this time not so good. still smell it and loose a little.
im struggling on what to buy, all alum or gm oem. how do i know its real gm and is it better than my old one? i see alum for $150- $500,,,?
my main concern is the tranny cooler reliability in the long run and i hear the gm is good there even with the crack problem?
i had trouble finding stuff on rockauto.
advice needed!
im struggling on what to buy, all alum or gm oem. how do i know its real gm and is it better than my old one? i see alum for $150- $500,,,?
my main concern is the tranny cooler reliability in the long run and i hear the gm is good there even with the crack problem?
i had trouble finding stuff on rockauto.
advice needed!
Last edited by happythree; Nov 3, 2015 at 08:18 PM.
I had the same problem 6months ago. I applied an epoxy patch that lasted about 2 months but it eventually began leaking again. I wound up putting in an OEM replacement radiator but I added some soft foam along the top of the fire wall where the radiator can flex and come in contact. So far it seems to be doing well. There's still some flexibility for the radiator to absorb shock but it's somewhat limited so it can't come in contact with the firewall anymore.
well this time not so good. still smell it and loose a little.
im struggling on what to buy, all alum or gm oem. how do i know its real gm and is it better than my old one? i see alum for $150- $500,,,?
my main concern is the tranny cooler reliability in the long run and i hear the gm is good there even with the crack problem?
i had trouble finding stuff on rockauto.
advice needed!
im struggling on what to buy, all alum or gm oem. how do i know its real gm and is it better than my old one? i see alum for $150- $500,,,?
my main concern is the tranny cooler reliability in the long run and i hear the gm is good there even with the crack problem?
i had trouble finding stuff on rockauto.
advice needed!
ok thanks, they show a 2007. i assume the're all the same. im a 2010.
ready to order.
i dont see the 2nd bolt for the air cond?
i guess ill find my way when i get into it, a messy job i think!!
how about a quik plug for the lower rad hose? maybe avoid a complete drain?
old cap fit?,, ok??
i called 6-7 places around here, nobody does the top plastic replacement,..
ready to order.
i dont see the 2nd bolt for the air cond?
i guess ill find my way when i get into it, a messy job i think!!
how about a quik plug for the lower rad hose? maybe avoid a complete drain?
old cap fit?,, ok??
i called 6-7 places around here, nobody does the top plastic replacement,..
Last edited by happythree; Nov 4, 2015 at 11:52 AM.
I did mine in about an hour and a half.
You don't see the second bolt until you have everything loose including the first bolt then you tilt it back and you see the second bolt.
The absolute hardest part of the whole procedure is unclipping the trans cooler lines. They are a pain but use a small screwdriver or a scribe point and flip them open.
There was a youTube video somewhere that shows the replacement step by step.
There is no way to plug the lower drain fast enough to avoid draining fluid but all you actually loose is about a gallon. So a new gallon of Dexcool is all you would need to replace what is lost.
You don't see the second bolt until you have everything loose including the first bolt then you tilt it back and you see the second bolt.
The absolute hardest part of the whole procedure is unclipping the trans cooler lines. They are a pain but use a small screwdriver or a scribe point and flip them open.
There was a youTube video somewhere that shows the replacement step by step.
There is no way to plug the lower drain fast enough to avoid draining fluid but all you actually loose is about a gallon. So a new gallon of Dexcool is all you would need to replace what is lost.


