this is info from requests for the lock mode warning lite i use.
reason for mod; i dont trust myself to notice a steady lite which may get on by an accidental bump
i dont want to drive around on dry pavement in a lock mode

FIRST,,its a very simple electrical addition, the mechanics are somewhat difficult.

general info, pics or drawings to follow

the lock indicator lites on the dash are leds mounted on the same circuit board as the selector switches. a schematic of leds will show a diode symbol with the arrow pointing down

the top of the led is tied to positive supply volts. the bottom of each led has its own current limit resistor which gets pulled to ground thru the control circuit.
we could just connect two more resistors to those two and run 2 flashers in parallel.

i chose to have just one flasher so ill describe that. you can do either.

the flasher led looks exactly like any other led and gets powered the same., top to + supply which is tricky to get on the board.

all this requires a guy who can solder small parts safely!!

i scraped the insulation off the circuit board trace,CAREFULLY and soldered to it. the bottom of my single flasher has to be pulled low to ground by,,EITHER HI OR LO LOCK!!.

that requires two more simple diodes to provide isolation,so we dont connect both control lines together. these 2 diodes tie to the bottom of flasher and each points down, to one of the lock control lines. GOOD NEWS , the control lines have a solder hole!,and are found easily, to the right of the two limit res mentioned b4. they are r3 and r4. the pics will show.
now i actually put a resistor between the top of those 2 diodes and the flasher. it actually connects to one of the wires going out to where the flasher is mounted. i also put a res in the + supply line going to the flasher. why 2 resistors?? well those two wires go a short distance in my case, to the center of the dash thru plastic panels. each has a res so if for any conceivable reason a wire gets grounded or touches + 12v the res provides limiting protection,NO POSSIBLE WAY TO DAMAGE ANYTHING IF YOU GET INTO A BITCHING SESSION WITH SOMEONE!! like u know who!

now im trying to do a pic of board,,without success,so far

ok got it,,,please dont copy my messy job. use it as a guide.. see where the diodes connect in the holes to the right of res 3 and res 4.thats ez. see the messy slanted bare wire below the left diode, thats my +volt connection.
\
when you or you super tech does this you should bring all leads out this side of the board, not as i did.

now to dismantle your h3!'

just like a radio job unhook all conn and remove the panel,,to a nice clean white towell on the kitchen table. lay it shiny side down. carefully,with a good quality small phillips screwdriver,remove the 6 small screws on the sw/display panel. lift the cover saving 6 screws and NOTING how it slides up off the two rows of TINY,BENDABLE PINS SET IT AND SCREWS ASIDE. NOW YOU CAN LIFT OUT THE CONTROL/DISPLAY AND FIND THE AREA I PICTURED

break time!!

tom

recap,,only three connections, +volts, and the 2 holes to the left of res 3 and 4,,,pay attention to the holes where my diodes are connected,,NO OTHER!!

kiss

 

2 diodes,2 resistors,one flasher led

oh i ran mine to the top of speedo,held with some sticky putty for now!

how did i get from the heat duct area thru the inside panel,,not for the faint of heart,,i DRILLED!! A half in hole to the left sidein the opening,,,the right side of dash,,in a double panel. tricky but safe,,just hold steady!!!. NO ,,NOTHING SHOWS ON THE DASH!!!,,NO HOLES VISIBLE!!! SO DONT START!!

you can fish the wires thru top of speedo slight gap but i had to drill to get to the big opening and fish them thru.

tiny wire is fine. diodes standard logic diode not fussy,any small diode is good

typ,,1n914,,1n4148,,,res 1k,1/4 watt,1.2k etc ,,820 ohm,,!not fussy

 

You have a great idea, but it sounds like too much work for my time strapped lazy azz.

Waiting more details and pics.

 

hey, lazy?, it takes a lot of finger poking 4 me to get this far!!

i started by saying, simple but a lot of mechanical messin.

a lotta guys have pulled the radio plate, step one.
2,you pull 6 screws and circuit board cover.

3lift board out,its loose

4 add parts in 2 holes and 1 +volt point. make wires appx 18 in to reach dash thru rear, or do it ugly and skip the drillin.

my first one just peeked out of heat duct on dash left.

but i wanted it smack in middle so i cant miss it

the cheap drawing shows added parts on right side,2 res,2 diode,1led.

now how lazy can u get!?

hey i do this kind of stuff as hobby fun so i have parts.
''
i suggest you guys get parts and assemble, test, then do assm.

find an elex hobby guy,,its fun 4 him!

ask me specific q?

tom

 

drtom.....I'm getting close to understanding your diagram, but still not sure. Here's my interpretation. Please advise:

* the 2 diodes below the words lo & hi, are the existing indicator leds?

* the 2 holes in the circuit board are the feed for ground to the flashing led?

* the 2 diodes in the lower right are added to eliminate cross feeding hi/lo circuits?

* the 2 resistors shown in upper right of diagram (one is for the flashing led voltage reduction, the other is for a redundant backup protection?)

* the '+ supply' shown in the upper left of the diagram is soldered to where you scrapped the circuit board for positive voltage feed to the flashing led?

 

be careful with the spot i chose for the + feed, if you follow the trace u will find a better place, take your time!!

scrape carefully,,OR, follow that trace to the connector. it is i think, the third wire in and you could conn to it.

its possible that all conn could be made to wires coming in since i think each low signal is separate, i didnt explore that.

if you do,and its easier,,TAKE OVER!!

these things usually evolve to an easier way after guys struggle the hard way!

i just like solder, i know it holds. i dont trust crimp on conn, the stranded wires can migrate and creat lovely,, intermittents! i solder all wires on radio swaps, no problems

so, report back

tom

oh look at the cover with 6 screws, it somewhat dictates where the parts,wires can be placed because of dividers for the lighted spaces. i said this was more mechanical than elex!

it never ends; when pulling the "radio" panel, first time;
turn key on to shift to lo for space.turn key off,as far as u can,it wont come out!
do ure stuff,dont lock key in and u out!!,,leave door open!! or a kid inside!! oh get me out o here

 

So......were my assumptions in my post all correct?.....you didn't say

Ohhh......what are the values for the diodes and resistors you used?

 

you got it
be careful with the spot i chose for the + feed, if you follow the trace u will find a better place, take your time!!

look at cheep drawing for diode #,res,1k= 1000ohms,1.2k,,typical values,,not critical,,as mentioned,,typ,,1n914,,1n4148,,,res 1k,1/4 watt,1.2k etc ,,820 ohm,,!not fussy

 

Since the hi/lo control switch closes the circuit to provide ground to the flashing led, is there any reason why we can't just pull positive power for the flashing led from any ignition activated wire providing 12 volts, from under the dash, (radio feed wire, etc.), as opposed to scrapping the circuit board, or following the circuit board trace? I'm thinking this may be easier then additional messing with the board? The 'flashing led' resistor would protect it from blowing with a 12 volt input. What do you think?

 

have you checked the voltage broken? Very few LEDs operate at 12V and I can't recall ever seeing a surface mount at 12V. I'd bet the voltage on that board is around 3-5V.