Thank you for the additional information. I will be purchasing a Torque wrench soon, and getting ready to perform this after the winter season.

Adding this to the many other bookmarks.

 

Just finished this project... my three rearmost bolts were broken off, two flush with the exhaust manifold and third down level with side of engine..

With the manifold removed, two bolts still had had about 3/8" visible. I bought a broken stud extractor tool for $35 at the auto parts store which looks like a drill chuck and tightens onto the little nub and then lets you remove it with a ratchet.. much nicer than trying 50 1/4 turn revolutions with vice-grips.

On the broken off flush one (of course it was the one at rear of engine, with least room to work) I first tried drilling and an ez out, which didn't work. Finally had to have a welder come out and weld a nut on top of what was left of the stud (after filling in drill hole lol) and eventually was able to get it out that way with pliers. Took 4 different welding tries, two hours and 4 nuts.

Ended up re-using the original gasket which is a 3 layer metal deal because the replacement one I ordered from the auto parts shop (3 day special order) was a newer felpro metal/fabric type and not like the one the op got. The old one sealed up fine, engine is back to nice and quiet on startup.

I did use the stud / nut set the OP purchased, it worked well except they're not quite long enough to screw in to any torque setting, I tried to 15 ft lbs, but then they were too deep in the block to be able to get the nuts on with the gasket and manifold installed. I ended up backing them all out/up about a 1/2" to where the nut would had room to thread on and grip correctly. They still seemed to have enough length in the block to hold securely, but if I did it again I might get a bit longer studs.

I did pull the inner passenger side wheel well plastic for access but didn't take off the wheel, just turned the tires to the left.

 

Thanks for pic