Hello I'm looking at a H2 with low miles and a decent price, I'm looking at it from a private seller, and we're meeting in a day or so, but I'm unsure how it will work out, never bought from anyone but a dealer.

All he seems to know about it is it has "custom rims", something that I would personally be eager to change to stock asap if I got, there is somewhat of a language barrier as he has a strong spanish accent.

Any pointers or ideas?

EDIT, he also claims he is the only owner

 

If it has a lien on it try to meet him at the bank for the payoff. That way you know the bank gets paid and you get a title. If there is no lien you can meet him at your bank and they will have all of the paperwork you need and will make sure they get what they need. AAA will also handle your transaction for you. Never send/give a private seller the purchase price without getting the title at the time of payment. make sure they sign the back of the title and the mileage affadavit.

 

most lots/carmax give 30 day support of some kind. here u get?? if it goes clunk next week.

id drive 100 miles,with him in it if necessary.

i like to drive 20 miles, stop,idle 15 minutes and look for fluid drips while finger checking the brakes for hot rotors/bearings. just fwiw

i want to coast to a stop,no brakes,,should be COLD

 

Tell him you want a complete GM dealer history. That will tell you of any warranty related repairs.

Check oil to make sure it looks like oil, no whitish fluid especially on the end of the dipstick. sign of a crack between coolant and oil passages.

Check trans fluid, should be kind of transparent red. NO PINK, sign of migration of coolant to the trans fluid. Only cure for this is a new radiator and a complete rebuild or new trans.

Check radiator and make sure the coolant is sort of transparent and orange.

Remove the engine shield and check for oil leak. With engine shield in place an H3 can leak oil like crazy and it won't hit the ground, the shield will hold it.

Also, while under there, check the engine housing to trans and see if it has indications of an oil leak from the rear of the engine. The aluminum will be black from the saturated oil. (Note: This can also be caused by a sloppy oil change and sloppy oil changes are common on the H3 due to the cross member being located below the drain plug and oil filter.)

Check the rear of the front propshaft's rubber boot.

Check all the rubber boots on the front axle shafts (two on each shaft). As with the boot on the front propshaft, make sure they are dry of grease, have no obvious cracks and look to be in good condition.

Reference 4-wheel drive buttons.
Left button, normal 4x4 operation
Second from left 4x4 hi lock
Third from left 4x4 LO lock

When driving normally, the left button's indicator should be illuminated. While driving about twenty mph, push the SECOND button and see if its indicator illuminates and the first button's light goes off.

Press the first button to go back to normal.

Stop the vehicle, leave in DRIVE, and press the third button. It should just flash, nothing should happen and after flashing a bit it will stop. (The LO lock button should only engage in Neutral. If it engages in any other gear, something is wrong.)

Now, put the trans in neutral and press the third button. The third button's indicator should come on and you might hear a slight bank/clank from the rear as the t/case engages LO lock.

Drive it, the gearing should feel lower, and if it is an adventure model, it will fell really low.

Stop and while still in drive, push the first or second button, nothing should happen. Put it into neutral, and push the second or first button and it should go out of LO lock.

IF the vehicle has a locker. When in LO LOCK, at a low speed of about 2-5 mph, push the locker button, the locker button indicator should illuminate. Then push it again to unlock the locker.

Make sure the IP cluster is working. It is almost impossible to change the mileage on the H3. There are ways, but very few know how, and I ain't talking). Most people will think of switching out the BCM. However, as dumb as the cluster is on the H3, if the little chip in the cluster ever sees a mileage number smaller than last displayed, it will lock up and the DIC will no longer work. (DIC - Driver information center at the bottom of the cluster.) The actual millage on any H3 is held by the BCM, the IP cluster is basically nothing but a dump display device; that is except for that little chip that looks at the last mileage when the vehicle is shut down and compares it to the next mileage shown when it is turned back on.

Check the carpet for water damage, and the front side kick panels.

If it has a sunroof. Have the owner pour a glass of water over each corner, or hold a hose over the sunroof and run water over it. Then look in front of the rear tires for water flowing out of the fender liner. Look at the rear of the front tires for water flowing out of the liners there too. That is where the sunroof drain hoses run.

The rest is common knowledge especially when dealing with someone you don't know. Follow 3hummers suggestions on the title.

 

no need to add to this thread

 

Wait now 2wheel, you can never have to much advice I haven't went yet, still 18 hours or so left til i go

 

F5 has spoken... Let there be light! I'm with you 2wheel... If I were to say anything it would be repeating the experts... Doug and Dave know hummers better than I know my own hand (keeping it PG lol )

 

No, I do not know everything. I might know a lot. If someone can add to this, possibly from their own experience in purchasing, DO IT.

I'm always willing to learn from anyone....(Even Dave )

 

Wow, great post F5. Maybe they can pin that??