Those pads will be good. Not the top line but not the bottom line either. I tend to stick to middle line myself. Any brake job I do I either machine the rotors or replace them. Many in my area build up so much rust and corrosion on them that by the time you machine them they end up under min thickness spec. If you have no pulsation and the pad contact area is free of corrosion, rust and grooving then you are fine. Otherwise I would machine or replace them

 

i at least rough them up with sand paper

 

Looked into my previous invoices and the brakes (front and back) were replaced February 2015.

In that time the H3 has roughly 20K more miles.

The invoice states OEM factory brakes and they turned the front rotors.

Part number 15240794 - PAD Kit 5.014 Y $204.96
Brake Cleaner - $8.25

Total for front = $473.21

I get that pads last depending on the driver, but I believe the original pads lasted 40K+ miles. Thoughts?

 

im at 70000 , no brakes yet

 

Lots of stop and go in Los Angeles...

So, really need to know if rotors need to replaced as part of a pads replacement.

 

you'll need to look at them, measure maybe, follow the book.
if braking has been smooth and rotors look good id just rough them up with sand paper.

i dont often change rotors unless uneven wear.

 

I just did my rear brakes according to this video.
The only thing he did not mention which can cause a problem is where the bolts go for the rear caliper; the bolt bases can be too far out to fit the rear caliper back on. Seeing they look like they can be turned by a wrench; DON'T do it. These bolt bases can actually be compressed by hand and then the caliper will slip on easily. Bleeding the rear brakes was unnecessary for me as per the video. My brakes are now working fine.

 

A few things he did wrong. First is a safety thing, always use a jackstand and not just the factory jack when working on the truck. Jack stands have 4 points to the ground for stability. A pivot jack can easily tip over and if your not quick you could get caught under truck. Also I noticed the outer pad had lots of life left in it. This is typically due to caliper slides binding or the pad binding on caliper bracket. The sliders where the caliper bolts go in should have been removed, cleaned and had new sil-glide lubricant applied to them. The rotor had a bad rust edge around the brake pad to rotor surface, appeared to be maybe 3/4 to 1" of rust edge. By not replacing them or machining that rotor the braking efficiency drops dramatically as you get poor contact at that point. Also when the tin slide plates are removed the cast part on the caliper bracket should be cleaned of all rust and buildup which also allows the pads to have a better fit and improve brake pad life. When you see one pad completely worn and the other is at 1/2 or more of life that indicates the brakes are not working efficiently and shorten pad life as well as lengthens stopping distance. Just an FYI so if you notice poor braking or reduced life you will understand.

 

Cool, thanks.

 

I'm approaching 100K and ready for my second set of factory front pads. The rears are still at half.