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Bose system Subwoofer inputs

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Old Sep 20, 2015 | 04:14 PM
  #11  
fnfal308's Avatar
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Finally got around to trying the PAC C2A-GM24 Amplifier Interface for GM for the Y91 RPO code. If you have the Y91 code do not get this no matter what they tell you. It does not work.

I am now looking into tapping into the wires before the amp. Who knows what i'll end up with...
 
Old Jan 27, 2016 | 03:20 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by fnfal308
Finally got around to trying the PAC C2A-GM24 Amplifier Interface for GM for the Y91 RPO code. If you have the Y91 code do not get this no matter what they tell you. It does not work.

I am now looking into tapping into the wires before the amp. Who knows what i'll end up with...

Any joy? I'm still keen to add a sub!
 
Old Jan 28, 2016 | 06:02 AM
  #13  
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Absolutly. Tapped into the rear speaker wires right and left with a speaker wire to coax adapter. Works perfect. Cost about $20
 
Old Jan 28, 2016 | 06:30 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by fnfal308
Absolutly. Tapped into the rear speaker wires right and left with a speaker wire to coax adapter. Works perfect. Cost about $20

oooh now i'm hungry!
I got an 09 with a Y91 non nav Bose system.
Can you explain to me exactly which wires you tapped into ?
I have already bought a cheap PAC LOC. Am hoping this will save me!

How does the sub sound with the LOC ? Any problems with cross over or anything like that ?
Are you adjusting the power of the sub with a separate contoller etc ?
Thanks!
 
Old Jan 29, 2016 | 03:08 AM
  #15  
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Not sure if this makes any difference, but i have the Y91 and the UQS codes. So by my reckoning, i think that's the bose luxury amp, with 5.1 discrete channels ?

I was looking at this: Adding Sub To Bose System? - Audio, Electronics, OnStar, & SiriusXM - GM-Trucks.com (post 13)
 
Old Jan 29, 2016 | 07:59 AM
  #16  
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Do not tap the rear speakers for a subwoofer. The signal at the rear speakers is not full range (you will not get the low frequency you want for the sub). You need to tap the wires that go directly to the sub itself under the console. Remove the side console panel on the driver's side and you can see the sub/wires fairly easy. Tap the signal there and you will be good to go.
 
Old Jan 29, 2016 | 08:04 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by MVR 155
Do not tap the rear speakers for a subwoofer. The signal at the rear speakers is not full range (you will not get the low frequency you want for the sub). You need to tap the wires that go directly to the sub itself under the console. Remove the side console panel on the driver's side and you can see the sub/wires fairly easy. Tap the signal there and you will be good to go.
Would you suggest i tap before the amp ? or just before the sub ? Ideally i'd look for a harness to insert in the middle with the "taps out" as i hate splicing anything oem. Anyone got any ideas ? Looks to me like it's a 16 pin C4 connector that i may need to tackle, but i've never removed the drivers side trim so never even seen what i will be playing with. Does it come out easy enough ? I got visions of having to breakdown the whole console just to get to it....
 
Old Jan 29, 2016 | 04:17 PM
  #18  
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And he may be correct. I did not want subwoofer, I wanted woofer. ANd it gives me what I wanted.
 
Old Jan 30, 2016 | 05:10 AM
  #19  
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I would just tap the signal at the harness that goes directly to the sub, it's what I did on my 2008 with the same factory system. It sounded great and I ran that setup for over 5 years with zero issues. I just recently got rid of my H2 and bought a new Yukon Denali.
 
Old Jan 30, 2016 | 05:36 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by MVR 155
I would just tap the signal at the harness that goes directly to the sub, it's what I did on my 2008 with the same factory system. It sounded great and I ran that setup for over 5 years with zero issues. I just recently got rid of my H2 and bought a new Yukon Denali.
Ok. Will do the same. As the sub is mono did you just tap 2 wires in i.e. + and - or did you have several connections to make ? The LOC I have is a pac SN35 so just want to make sure I have the correct type. Also where did you take the remote on line from ? (I.e. To power the amp on)
 
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