Bad vibration at idle
#32
11-26-2010, 09:56 AM
My vibration has been MUCH better since I took off my throttle body and cleaned it. I had about 28500 on mine when I removed the throttle body. At first look, when taking off the air intake duct, I thought it was going to be a waste of time. Outboard side still looked clean. I removed the throttle body and looked at the inboard side and it looked to be caked with tar. Took about 45 minutes (a full "Jackson" for any Drew and Mike fans) to make it look like new with some TB cleaner and a tooth brush. Idle smoothness improved quite a bit. I also ran a bottle of stp fuel system cleaner thru the tank .... Ran rough during that tank, but much better with fresh gas. I have noticed that the engine is almost cadillac smooth with a full tank oh gas. A full gas tank must also act as a liquid dampener. I'll post some pics of the TB when I get to my pc.
#36
11-26-2010, 10:49 AM
I have noticed that my H3 runs smoother with a full tank of gas....it idles pretty smooth til the tank gets to just over half full, then it vibrates just a little more (still better than it was before the TB cleaning). It calms down again at about 1/4 full, then I fill up again. I think the vibration must get dampened by the fuel in the tank -- maybe a resonant frequency problem?? I also noticed that my H3 runs smoother after I quit using speedway gas....not sure if there is a real difference in brands of gas...just an observation. My H3 also idles smoother when I don't turn on the AC or the recirculation. With the open vent on or the heater on, it runs real smooth. Maybe those who say theirs is 100% smooth don't use the recirculation or the AC much.
I also added a K&N filter element to the stock air box and that has also seemed to help. I think the TB cleaning was the biggest help in mine. Never knew it could get so dirty after only 2 1/2 years of driving.
I have 2 other friends that have 2008 H3s and theirs also vibrates at idle (more than mine) -- they didn't notice it til I pointed it out. Checked my wife's Saturn Vue (v6 - awd) and there is a bit of vibration in her steering wheel as well. I also didn't notice hers until I was looking for it. My 2005 Canyon was 10 times worse than my current H3.
I also added a K&N filter element to the stock air box and that has also seemed to help. I think the TB cleaning was the biggest help in mine. Never knew it could get so dirty after only 2 1/2 years of driving.
I have 2 other friends that have 2008 H3s and theirs also vibrates at idle (more than mine) -- they didn't notice it til I pointed it out. Checked my wife's Saturn Vue (v6 - awd) and there is a bit of vibration in her steering wheel as well. I also didn't notice hers until I was looking for it. My 2005 Canyon was 10 times worse than my current H3.
#37
11-27-2010, 07:27 AM
"Inline motors are more prone to vibrations and are not as "friendly" or comfortable as v motors."
i could show you a 49 buick straight 8 that you could sit your morning coffee on and find it at noon!! that thing was smooth as a clock motor,,well when clocks had motors!
tom
now a v 12,,thars a motor
i could show you a 49 buick straight 8 that you could sit your morning coffee on and find it at noon!! that thing was smooth as a clock motor,,well when clocks had motors!
tom
now a v 12,,thars a motor
im guessing there is like 9 of them in that 49 buick
patterned after the packard
#39
01-01-2011, 10:29 AM
Engine Vibration & Throttle Body Gunk
Anyway, I noticed your comment regarding the dirty throttle body. From the looks of the pic, it appears to be oil residue that has been redirected to the combustion chamber by the crank case ventilation (PCV) system.
All internal combustion engines suffer from some degree of blow-by. In early motors it was simply vented to the atmosphere - until the clean air types said that's a no no.
Anyway, to make a long story longer, they make an oil catch can that addresses this issue. I have one installed on my 2010 Hemi Challenger and it definitely works to remove the oil that would normally be routed into the throttle body by the PCV system and burned by the motor.
Just a comment that you can take for what it's worth - what with inflation and all... probably not much.
Happy Motoring from the Great Northwest.
Mike
#40
02-09-2013, 11:07 PM
Kind of an old thread, but does anyone have an order of places to look? (motor mounts, then something else, then something else, etc)
When I'm moving, I don't have any steering wheel vibration. But when I come to a stop, there's a point where it will noticeably start vibrating the steering wheel, and occasionally I can feel it in the seat. When I start moving again, it goes away.
I looked this issue up for some other cars, which led me to motor mounts. When I looked up how to check them, the instructions where more or less have a buddy rev your engine while you look at it for movement...
I had someone tell me to check some "Steering linkage"? Anyone familiar?
No check engine light, rpms are more or less steady (every 9-14 seconds or so it'll drop *slightly* but it does it routinely.)
When I'm moving, I don't have any steering wheel vibration. But when I come to a stop, there's a point where it will noticeably start vibrating the steering wheel, and occasionally I can feel it in the seat. When I start moving again, it goes away.
I looked this issue up for some other cars, which led me to motor mounts. When I looked up how to check them, the instructions where more or less have a buddy rev your engine while you look at it for movement...
I had someone tell me to check some "Steering linkage"? Anyone familiar?
No check engine light, rpms are more or less steady (every 9-14 seconds or so it'll drop *slightly* but it does it routinely.)