Hey guys,

Know any way to test both? My sub isn't bumping Amy more, not sure if it is the sub or if it is the amp so I have to tear into it a bit more while I have it apart for the resistor.

Anyone have both stock components they want to get rid of?

Thanks,
Steve

 

I would imagine the stock amp runs everything including the door speakers so if only the sub is out then I would say it is the sub only. I see used one's once in a while on ebay but even used they're not cheap.

 

good to know that the amp is alright since everything else works. I was hoping that maybe someone on here had one that they removed, but im betting most just disconnect them instead of removing them?

they arent cheap, $140 for a used one on ebay

thanks,
steve

 

Do all H2's have a sub? I have a 2008 and it certainly does not have enough bass to think it has a sub. Is there a separate setting on the radio for the sub i.e lowpass filter or gain setting?

 

i would assume most, if not all, do. if they have the factory bose in them they should have a sub. yours might be blown as well LOL i could definitely tell when it was bumping and when it quit, thats for sure.

steve

 

Agreed, the Bose systems are pretty darn good in my book. I actually have never understood wanting to add another sub. I think the Bose system has a huge amount of bass. Maybe you need to mess with the settings on the head unit, play around until it sounds better.

 

If any of you get around to replacing your factory sub can you take a picture of the location? I cannot find anything on the web that shows where exactly it is at. I'd like to replace mine (assuming I have one) b/c the car has no bass.

 

i believe it is directly below the center gauge and controller cluster, at least that is what i have found online so far. i will surely take a couple pictures of it when i find it.

the only other spot it would be is under the center hatch compartment down by the amp. i thought it was all one unit but it doesnt look like that is the case, as the amp is sold separately of the sub.

if you dont have much for bass, it is most likely toast. can be had on ebay for 130-150 used, which i guess isnt too bad for the whole oem unit.

steve

 

Got some pictures of it. All of the panels down below on the right side have to come off, relatively easy to do.

Glove box has 3 screws, the bottom heater cover has 2, the panel itself has 4 or 5 Phillips screws and a screw on the pillar by the heater control mount plus the outside.

The center console cover has 2 Allen heads up top, 3 more screws under the cup holder, shift lever has a small Allen head, the door has 4 screws, the rest comes loose under it.

The amp is in under the center compartment, while the sub is under the on star buttons.

The carpet cover has 1 screw right under the heater area on the pillar, as well as the panel right above that.

The sub has 1 10mm nut in the front of it and 2 screws under the cup holder. I have pics of that stuff, but unfortunately didn't take pics of the whole removal.

It is quite easy if you take your time and look before yanking. The panels all have locking push tabs on it so you have to pull it straight out. Be careful with them. I am not going to take any of the drivers side apart, I don't think I have to since the heater tube for the back is over there anyway.

Pics in a sec

Steve

The center panel won't come fully out until you disconnect the cig lighter ports. There's not much room but you can get them.

 

I'll have to post them tomorrow, my phone just can't process all of them.

Steve