Ordered a small body lift to assist with front wheel scrub when I put on 20x12 with 35” tires. I can mostly say that it worked. I have better Turing radius now and only slight rub that kicks off the dust at max left and right margins. Kit was really easy to install in my standard H3 inline 5. I have not noticed any difference in the way it drives. I know many members have performed this mod and you either like it or you don’t. I was skeptical at first when I ordered, but now that its installed I really like it. No regrets here. Took me about 2 hours to complete and the numerous YouTube vids helped me understand what I was about to tackle cost was $220. If I wanted more lift at this point, i would say a good suspension lift with proper shocks would be in order. If I could get one of those that only lifted another 1 inch, I would go for it. I’m sure the better and newer components would make a noticeable difference in the ride quality without going full blown redneck.

 

You can lift the front your rig 2" by cranking the OEM torsion keys, after that just must have an alignment done

 

Welcome to HF. Post some pics.

35s fit with zero lift, the H3 was designed that way on purpose. Adjust the front T Bars (also made that way on purpose) to a max of 23.5" front fender lip to hub center, but in your case add in the 1" body lift so it would be
24.5" instead. Then go get an alignment.

There are no currently manufactured lift kits for the H3, long since discontinued.

 

True Doc, but Chucky gots' RIMZ (20x12z) and 35s.

 

Before the lift.




Cranking down the torsion just makes it ride rough.

 

ABSOLUTELY FALSE! The spring rate of the torsion bar remains exactly the same regardless of whatever position it is in. Twisting its rested orientation has zero impact on ride stiffness/roughness. By adjusting the T Bar you are not making the spring stiffer. The spring rate was set when the T Bar was manufactured.

If you raise the front by a T Bar adjustment too far, then you get steering geometry, half shaft and ball joint issues, hence the agreed upon max is 23.5" front fender lip to hub center. Many of us here have been wheeling H3s for more than a decade and have had more than one H3 that have had T Bar adjustments over that time span. As I said earlier, GM designed these truck to wheel with 35s and to be able to increase the front height by T Bar adjustment. The raked nose drop with max OEM tires at 33" was to make fleet MPG off the assembly line. GM expected enthusiasts to 1+ to 35s and built in the ability to T Bar adjust for height, and offset weight of winch bumpers etc. No other GM truck was made that way.

Nothing wrong with a body lift, but it did not impact on your tires rubbing the sway bar at full turn lock. In your case, since your rimz changed the backspace you may get tires rubbing rubbing the fender and you body lift could help.

 

True, In a sense. But the torsion bar adjustment in no way changes the spring rate of the torsion bar.
For 1 you are now off of the progressive dampeners (part of the suspension).
The remaining issues are exactly what Doc said above.
Also, Big RIMZ with less rubber do not absorb the bumps and cracks like OEM and more rubber does. You also have to take into account the weight difference of your wheel tire package vs OEM also.

 

^X2 sidewalls 1" shorter compared to the oem 33's on 16's. Run a lower air pressure, or change the shocks.