*Look at This!
That is your parking brake cable. Looks rusted and the outer plastic covering has split. I'd pick up a new one. Towards the rear of the truck the single cable turns to two cables and runs to each rear brake.
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Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 10
Thanks lojac for your time. I’ll look into buying and installing a new one. Will probably wrap up in electrical tape or duct tape in the mean time. Do you know any good ways to combat rust? I live near the beach so I know it’s inevetable but someone mentioned a cheap fix of spraying with bed truck liner
No problem, here to help!
I am in AZ so very dry but I went through all the rust spots on my H2 which were all just surface rust, cleaned them with various wire wheels and cups then cleaned the surface and coated the spots with POR15, at least 2 coats.
Stuff seems to be pretty indestructible and is always recommended by others. It is not a rust converter so the rust has to be completely removed before application. I have heard rust converters are really just a gimmick and do not work at intended.
I am in AZ so very dry but I went through all the rust spots on my H2 which were all just surface rust, cleaned them with various wire wheels and cups then cleaned the surface and coated the spots with POR15, at least 2 coats.
Stuff seems to be pretty indestructible and is always recommended by others. It is not a rust converter so the rust has to be completely removed before application. I have heard rust converters are really just a gimmick and do not work at intended.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 1,635
From: Birmingham (UK)
Seriously its worth changing all your cables at the same time, I learned my lesson as once one failed the others followed soon after as you will surely find.
You might as well go through the pain on one visit. You need a 10mm open ended wrench (spanner in the UK) some zip-ties and a vice-grip-wrench.
The 10mm wrench is just the right size to slide over the "tangs" of the cables to release them from their mounting points.
Once all the cables are in-place put the zip-ties through the rear-springs (rear wheels) and pull them really tight to releave some of the tension. Release the foot-brake and pull its cable out as far as possible at the coupling-plate where the 3 cables meet, use the vice-grips to hold it there (dont damage the cable)
Reconnect the cables to the coupling plate and then release the vice-grips, at the rear snip the zip ties, check everything looks OK and the job should be finished.
The two rear cables together took about 1 hour, don't know how long it takes to do the foot-brake.
You might as well go through the pain on one visit. You need a 10mm open ended wrench (spanner in the UK) some zip-ties and a vice-grip-wrench.
The 10mm wrench is just the right size to slide over the "tangs" of the cables to release them from their mounting points.
Once all the cables are in-place put the zip-ties through the rear-springs (rear wheels) and pull them really tight to releave some of the tension. Release the foot-brake and pull its cable out as far as possible at the coupling-plate where the 3 cables meet, use the vice-grips to hold it there (dont damage the cable)
Reconnect the cables to the coupling plate and then release the vice-grips, at the rear snip the zip ties, check everything looks OK and the job should be finished.
The two rear cables together took about 1 hour, don't know how long it takes to do the foot-brake.
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