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Winch install, things I should know?

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Old Dec 8, 2013 | 05:46 AM
  #1  
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Default Winch install, things I should know?

Hello all,

In the near future, I intend to mount a 12,000 lb winch to the front of my H3 (06 base). I have a few questions for the collective:

What are some general things I need to look out for? (common issues during install, things that break easily, etc)

Do I need to take any action with my electrical system? (Second battery, different type of battery, different alternator, etc)

I understand I will need to make another purchase for something to mount. What solutions have you tried? Would you go with a standalone mount (like the cbphoto high mount) or is it worth it to just buy a new bumper? (like a thor or arb)

Additionally, if there is something important that I have overlooked, please feel free to chime in.

Thank you,
-qui
 
Old Dec 8, 2013 | 05:54 PM
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Alpha torsion bars, upgraded battery connectors, a power block for accessories...
 
Old Dec 10, 2013 | 11:32 PM
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I installed a Warn VR10000 winch on mine earlier this year. I used a Steelcraft Winch Brush Guard to mount it onto my '09 H3. In hindsight I probably should have bought one of those hidden winch bumpers in order to maintain the factory approach angles as this winch brush guard tends to plow into a hill once a while. IMO your factory connectors should be fine; as a matter of fact the factory connectors incorporate a separate threaded stud you can attach the winch wires to. I did buy a new battery since the one I had did not meet the minimum requirement of 650cca's for my particular winch. Lastly, because of the added weight of the brushguard and winch combo, I grew tired of the ***-up look and cranked the factory torsion bars to level it out; no need to replace them with the Alpha torsions.
 

Last edited by ponchoV8; Dec 10, 2013 at 11:41 PM.
Old Dec 11, 2013 | 01:46 PM
  #4  
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IMHO the OEM battery terminals are absolute crap. Even if you do not want to add a winch, cut those off right now and install a quality aftermarket set. PCMs and BCMs are extremely sensitive to minute voltage fluctuations caused by poor battery connections, there are a bunch of threads about this

I would also use a battery shut off switch so the winch can be isolated. Ever see a winch short and start winding without the ability to shut it off quickly? It gets ugly pretty fast.

Alternator output improvement is not easy with the I5s, you basically have to have one built/rebuilt to your specs and swapping out the alternator on the I5s is a PITA.

Stingers and a Mini BEP Marine Battery switch.
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Old Dec 11, 2013 | 04:23 PM
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IMO your factory connectors should be fine; as a matter of fact the factory connectors incorporate a separate threaded stud you can attach the winch wires to.
I agree completely,they are fine if used and adjusted properly. I think heavy handed guys twist them to distortion and ruin. the threaded stud is a solid part of the very good factory crimp metal.

having said that, when I added a 2nd backup batt and built a flat carrier for them, I carefully cut the factory strap so I could retain the crimp and stud which I bolted thru my solid brass ugly but super connectors.
I feed the 2nd batt with a diode and fuse to isolate it and have a bolt in jumper ready if needed.

I would never under any circumstances cut the copper cable and use pressure or squeeze type connectors. the copper cable,if cut should be soldered,then crimped and resoldered to a heavy ring terminal. the tiny individual wires should never be exposed to the underhood atmosphere, they will in time corrode
 

Last edited by happythree; Dec 11, 2013 at 04:49 PM.
Old Dec 11, 2013 | 09:02 PM
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Happy, that's sort of what I did with the OEM crimp. I cut off the clamp part, left the flat part along with the crimp and bolted them to military style battery post connectors. Then I installed a second battery and an IBS dual battery monitor system.

All connections (accessories, winch, lights, etc.) are made to the primary battery and the secondary battery sits there fully charged to kick in when needed. And with just a push of a button on the IBS control, I can jumpstart myself if the primary is too weak.

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Old Dec 11, 2013 | 10:28 PM
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I like that! id like to see that in process to see the tray and hold down stuff.
I have no hold down but I don't do much rough riding! cables heep it in place till I roll over!

it looks solid.
 
Old Dec 12, 2013 | 05:33 AM
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Tray is from Artec Industries. Battery Mounts
Optima back to back mounts fit in our H3's.

You can get them to hold (2) size 35 Optima batteries like mine.
Mine has special top plates that are cutout with a "H 3" that were offered as an option at one time.

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Or for (2) size 34 Optimas
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Here's a pic of my friend's install of (2) size 34's

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Last edited by Bunger; Dec 12, 2013 at 06:01 AM.
Old Dec 12, 2013 | 05:45 AM
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And to get back to the original poster, Qui.

I originally had a high mount cbphoto like winch plate, with a Steelcraft brushguard.

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But after an accident, I took the insurance money and got a ThorParts bumper & Predator brushguard.

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I prefer the winch to be out in the open rather than hidden behind the bumper. There's pros and cons to that and everyone has there own opinion. I just think it's easier to control the windup when you can clearly see the winch drum. Plus being higher, it stays out of the mud or water a little better.


One other thing. Go with synthetic winch line. Much stronger than steel, much lighter than steel and much safer than steel. Will just drop to the ground if snapped rather than whipping back wildly like steel.
 

Last edited by Bunger; Dec 12, 2013 at 06:04 AM.
Old Dec 12, 2013 | 01:20 PM
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Love the looks of that set up.



Originally Posted by Bunger
And to get back to the original poster, Qui.

I originally had a high mount cbphoto like winch plate, with a Steelcraft brushguard.




But after an accident, I took the insurance money and got a ThorParts bumper & Predator brushguard.




I prefer the winch to be out in the open rather than hidden behind the bumper. There's pros and cons to that and everyone has there own opinion. I just think it's easier to control the windup when you can clearly see the winch drum. Plus being higher, it stays out of the mud or water a little better.


One other thing. Go with synthetic winch line. Much stronger than steel, much lighter than steel and much safer than steel. Will just drop to the ground if snapped rather than whipping back wildly like steel.
 



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