Pulling out what little hair I have. Been dealing with this for a while.
I have read every post on the forum dealing with this.
2007 H3 3.7L 205000 miles automatic
Over the last 6 to 8 months.
replaced:
Throttle Body
MAF
PCM
accelerator petal sensor
Battery terminals
took fuse box apart. Cleaned and inspected.
checked a wire to PCM in an earlier post.

yesterday. I cleared all the codes once again
and waited for it to go into limp mode ( stab System - reduced traction- reduced power)
as soon as it did i checked the codes.
P2101
P1516
i did this several times. always the same result.

it tends to go into reduced power at idle
at a light or stop sign or in drive way.
I can clear codes ( with it still running) and
it will drive normal. May go for a while ( 5 or even 10 miles or till you sit at a light) before “reduced power” sets again.
I pulled live data.
When it goes to reduced power
Throttle position goes to 30% and stays there.
Mass air flow jumps from about 50-70 to 140 and will change with throttle change but stays at the higher level. I clear the codes and it goes back to driving normal .

trying to keep this short. There is more story but will start here.

 

Welcome to HF.

Let's start with the simple stuff. What brand parts did you throw at the problem, like what brand Throttle Body and Pedal Position Sensor? If you went with discount parts, that could be your continuing problem. Did you use CRC Electronic Cleaner on the harness end connectors? Have you inspected the harness wires for compromise (rubbing, cracks, frays)?

I see you mentioned the Battery Terminals have been replaced. With What? Garbage El Cheapo battery terminals are NOT worth the $$ saved in diagnosing your issue when you have to re-do the same things. I cannot over state that replacement Battery Terminals should be of high quality, like Stingers or your favorite quality aftermarket brand. The crappy azzed battery terminals themselves can cause your two codes.

What is your battery voltage at rest?

 

I have been lurking for about two years and finally posted this question. Learned much from this forum.

it’s fixed….. just got back from a 50 mile ride.
all seems well. The following is for others that google this. I hated to go through 3 pages of info with no final out come.

yes I inspected all connections and used deoxit D5 then blew them with an air hose. Dow Corning compound 4 where needed.
Parts come mostly from oreillys. They are not OEM but most times I get by.
the throttle Body was a Dorman … it is new Chinese. That will be important in a minute.
Battery terminals were Zink. $17 for two. The best I could find.
I use CRC MAF sensor cleaner.

So today was the day to dig in. I did some research. What I found…. 6/4/23 I replaced the throttle Body after a computer and several other things. From my notes on the TB box that fixed it, and the truck complaints stoped for several months. Then once every so often it did it. Say every two weeks. Then every week. Then it became more frequent. Finally a couple times a day. She left it with me and took my Yukon boat puller. Hooked up the Launch scanner and ran Live date graphs and the TPS was erratic and spiking. it then would set the code. Which by the discription for the code that should be what it was but because it had been replaced I overlooked it and kept searching. So the Dorman TB had failed and has a lifetime warranty. I pulled it, took it back and got an another one. 10 minutes to swap it out and no cost. Now it’s fixed.

So yes good parts make all the difference.
Unfortunately you gotta mortgage the house
to buy OEM ….. sometimes they just cost more and sometimes you are just giving it a try. I’ll try $200 but not $400 or $500.

Thankyou for your help.

 

Good news. Hope that Chinese Dorman holds up longer than the first.

 

nice work figuring it out! those intermittent issues can be such a pain.