Thanks! I honestly have no idea when it was last changed. That said, my dad and I have had it since it was new. Nothing other than premium gasoline has been run in it.

 

Premium gas at a cheap no/off brand station is still cheap low quality fuel. You missed the point. Look up "top tier gas" for some examples and note that not all areas of the country use the designation.

I use Marathon 87. A stock H3 does not ever need premium, and cannot take advantage of it because its PCM is programmed for 87, any higher octane is just pissin away cabbage.

93 Speedy Q is still crap, it is just high octane crap.

 

Understood - for the purposes of the post, it’s an extremely rare occasion that Sunoco or BP fuel wasn’t used (ie a road trip) and in that case I did use the best quality fuel I could get within that area.

 

A lot of money wasted in this thread.

First off, there's an update. Second, make sure to have proper/clean/secured battery terminals & proper battery voltage. Third, remove connectors, use an electronic contact cleaner and coat with dielectric grease. Problem solved, and no need to throw parts at it.

 

By way of update, I checked the wires to the throttle body and they were not cracked or broken and the connection was solid. So I checked my battery terminals and they were clean. The truck has been turning over slower anyhow so I put a new battery in it. So far so good. I will update if there’s any other issues or if this seems to fix it. Hope y’all have a great day!

ps - I would always use the Delco batteries and other parts. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve seen a lot of corrosion on terminals as a result of non OEM batteries.

 

Do you still have the OEM crappy Battery Terminal Connectors? Might want to search an look over the multitude of threads on the topic of replacing the OEMs with a quality aftermarket set like Stingers or your favorite brand.
First mod that should be done to every H3/H3T to avoid a known source of electrical Gremlins.

Good luck.

 

It's about time you posted the "crappy battery terminals". Only for the millionth time. lol Btw, identifix shows most confirmed fixes on above codes was due to voltage drop(improper connection or low battery voltage).

Swim3395 Nice work finding the cause. Live and Learn.

 

Ha Ha... no kiddin.

When I bought my Alpha back in Jan. it had sat a while and when they tried to start it it barely cranked. They put a charger on it for a while and started it for a test drive. It popped the reduced power & StabiliTrack messages (no codes at first) and was herky jerky slow to shift. Seller was all bummed out, willing to discuss lower price.

I said let's right up a reduced price but conditioned upon my being able to make one improvement and see if that does anything. I bought the cheapest Auto Parts Battery Terminal Connector O'Reilly's had, started with the positive and all clear, everything worked, no messages, all smooth. Seller asked "how did you know that would do anything?" I said.... lucky guess.

Saved some bucks. Put Stingers on as soon as I got it home. Zero issues since, same old battery.

Good job Swim.

 

My Electrical 1 automotive students have to perform voltage drop testing on 4 vehicles; I made a worksheet based on this. You wouldn't believe how many vehicles I have encountered over the last 45 years that had new batteries, starters and alternators installed (without actually fixing the complaint) that turned out to have poor battery connections. Once you've mastered voltage drop testing, you stop shotgunning parts and maybe save enough money for things like - I don't know - food? In my Engine Performance class we apply this testing to sensors and actuators; working from the PCM connections out to the sensors. Run a search on electrical connector fretting and start questioning how many good sensors get replaced every day. Sometimes the simple act of unplugging a connector and plugging it back in will temporarily "fix" the symptom. Here's another search to run: Stabilant 22. Costs more per ounce than printing ink. Helps promote electron flow between connectors.

 

That's awesome thanks for sharing.
I remember when my wife came home January 2018 in "limp mode" dashboard warning lights lit up. I immediately pulled the code and went to the connector and cleaned/lubed with dielectric grease. Test drive all good. I told her to take it to the dealer in the morning, since it was under a 8yr/80k emission warranty. She did and gave my number for contact. I received a call from the dealer and the service manager said I needed a new pcm and it would cost $1100.00. I asked why the pcm? He said the tech can't figure it out, so it must need a pcm. After the call, I told my wife to go to the dealership, and find a new ride. She picked out a '17 Encore preferred II AWD, and left her '11 Regal. A 3way call and in 15minutes, my total out of pocket was: $1733.