question on speaker swap, H3,non monsoon
#11
09-12-2011, 07:14 PM
thedave8;
Front speakers for a Non-Monsoon system is what you are looking for right?
What you want to look at in the "specifications" section of the speakers you are looking at:
First is the "Sensitivity" rating which tells you how efficiently speakers converts power into sound. The higher the number, the louder the speakers will play. An efficient speaker helps you maximize your available power (which is what you want). I would look for a speaker / component set that has a "sensitivity" rating of no less than 90db an no more than 93db. This is the decible rating of the speaker with 1 watt of input measured at 1 meter from the speaker.
Next look at the "Frequency Response" which will tell you the range of frequencies the speaker you are looking at will reproduce (lowest frequency to the highest). For full-range speakers / components, the wider the range, the better. Optimal is 20 - 20,000 Hz, the range of human hearing. That being said with the limitations of power from the stock head unit and the size of the door speaker 6 1/2" I would suggest something that reproduces from 45 to 60hz to 20K hz.
Last, for the better sound you are looking for I would suggest a "component system". Since you already have a mounting location for a "separate tweeter" in the A-pillar. This will allow you to run a 6 1/2" speaker in the door playing the low and mid range frequency and the tweeter will play the "highs" and create a more realistic "sound stage".
I would look at the crutchfield link Doc mentioned and see if there are any speakers or components that fit the criteria above and your price range. Then look to purchase them from someone else (crutchfield is expensive in my humble opinion).
With that being said here are a couple component sets to look @ in different price ranges:
Boston Acoustics SE60 $109.99
Boston Acoustics SE60 6-3/4" component speaker system — fits 6-3/4" and 6-1/2" openings - Features & Specs at Crutchfield.com
Sensitivity 92 dB
Frequency Response 58 - 20k Hz
RMS Power Range (Watts) 2-55
JL Audio TR650-CSi $179.99
JL Audio TR650-CSi Evolution™ TR Series 6-3/4" component speaker system - Features & Specs at Crutchfield.com
Sensitivity 91 dB
Frequency Response 59 - 22k Hz
RMS Power Range (Watts) 10-50
Infinity Reference 6030cs $199.99
Infinity Reference 6030cs 6-3/4" component speaker system — also fit in 6-1/2" openings - Features & Specs at Crutchfield.com
Sensitivity 93 dB
Frequency Response 53 - 21k Hz
RMS Power Range (Watts) 2-90
Boston Acoustics SR60 $299.99
Boston Acoustics SR60 6-1/2" component speaker system — fits 6-3/4" and 6-1/2" openings at Crutchfield Signature
Sensitivity 90 dB
Frequency Response 45 - 22k Hz
RMS Power Range (Watts) 2-85
Diamond Audio H600S $499.99
Diamond Audio H600S 6-3/4" component speaker system with silk tweeters at Crutchfield Signature
Sensitivity 91 dB
Frequency Response 42 - 24k Hz
RMS Power Range (Watts) 15-85
If you are going to use separate "amplification" that's a whole different "book" that I will not be typing anytime soon!
Hope this helps with your search!
.
Front speakers for a Non-Monsoon system is what you are looking for right?
What you want to look at in the "specifications" section of the speakers you are looking at:
First is the "Sensitivity" rating which tells you how efficiently speakers converts power into sound. The higher the number, the louder the speakers will play. An efficient speaker helps you maximize your available power (which is what you want). I would look for a speaker / component set that has a "sensitivity" rating of no less than 90db an no more than 93db. This is the decible rating of the speaker with 1 watt of input measured at 1 meter from the speaker.
Next look at the "Frequency Response" which will tell you the range of frequencies the speaker you are looking at will reproduce (lowest frequency to the highest). For full-range speakers / components, the wider the range, the better. Optimal is 20 - 20,000 Hz, the range of human hearing. That being said with the limitations of power from the stock head unit and the size of the door speaker 6 1/2" I would suggest something that reproduces from 45 to 60hz to 20K hz.
Last, for the better sound you are looking for I would suggest a "component system". Since you already have a mounting location for a "separate tweeter" in the A-pillar. This will allow you to run a 6 1/2" speaker in the door playing the low and mid range frequency and the tweeter will play the "highs" and create a more realistic "sound stage".
I would look at the crutchfield link Doc mentioned and see if there are any speakers or components that fit the criteria above and your price range. Then look to purchase them from someone else (crutchfield is expensive in my humble opinion).
With that being said here are a couple component sets to look @ in different price ranges:
Boston Acoustics SE60 $109.99
Boston Acoustics SE60 6-3/4" component speaker system — fits 6-3/4" and 6-1/2" openings - Features & Specs at Crutchfield.com
Sensitivity 92 dB
Frequency Response 58 - 20k Hz
RMS Power Range (Watts) 2-55
JL Audio TR650-CSi $179.99
JL Audio TR650-CSi Evolution™ TR Series 6-3/4" component speaker system - Features & Specs at Crutchfield.com
Sensitivity 91 dB
Frequency Response 59 - 22k Hz
RMS Power Range (Watts) 10-50
Infinity Reference 6030cs $199.99
Infinity Reference 6030cs 6-3/4" component speaker system — also fit in 6-1/2" openings - Features & Specs at Crutchfield.com
Sensitivity 93 dB
Frequency Response 53 - 21k Hz
RMS Power Range (Watts) 2-90
Boston Acoustics SR60 $299.99
Boston Acoustics SR60 6-1/2" component speaker system — fits 6-3/4" and 6-1/2" openings at Crutchfield Signature
Sensitivity 90 dB
Frequency Response 45 - 22k Hz
RMS Power Range (Watts) 2-85
Diamond Audio H600S $499.99
Diamond Audio H600S 6-3/4" component speaker system with silk tweeters at Crutchfield Signature
Sensitivity 91 dB
Frequency Response 42 - 24k Hz
RMS Power Range (Watts) 15-85
If you are going to use separate "amplification" that's a whole different "book" that I will not be typing anytime soon!
Hope this helps with your search!
.
Thank you sir! very helpful! more great info!
#12
09-12-2011, 07:23 PM
I made a sub box out of mdf. It just sits in the back and if we have to load something or take the dogs for a ride, I put quick releases on the box and just unhook it. Not pretty but functional. I am 37 with two kids and two dogs and prefer function LOL.
#14
09-12-2011, 09:24 PM
you can get real fussy but you will never hear the difference because the sensitivity means little since you have ample power to drive any decent speaker. i just saw some nice ones at walmart that would work fine.
btw ,on the non monsoon the front tweets are tied directly in parallel with the door speakers, no separation network so its a very basic setup. nothing fancy. dont expect monsoon sound.
btw ,on the non monsoon the front tweets are tied directly in parallel with the door speakers, no separation network so its a very basic setup. nothing fancy. dont expect monsoon sound.
#16
09-12-2011, 11:02 PM
you can get real fussy but you will never hear the difference because the sensitivity means little since you have ample power to drive any decent speaker. i just saw some nice ones at walmart that would work fine.
btw ,on the non monsoon the front tweets are tied directly in parallel with the door speakers, no separation network so its a very basic setup. nothing fancy. dont expect monsoon sound.
btw ,on the non monsoon the front tweets are tied directly in parallel with the door speakers, no separation network so its a very basic setup. nothing fancy. dont expect monsoon sound.
There is a 12db per octive passive crossover (capacitor in series) for the tweeter. That IS the "separation network" used to send only the higher frequency of the entire sound spectrum (full bandwidth) to the tweeters. Other wise it would "pop" when trying to reproduce the full bandwidth. Most "tweets" as you call them can only reproduce down to between 2k and 5K hz without total distortion and/or blowing/buring up the voice coil.
As far as your "other" comment about sensitivity. I will just sit here an Laugh Out Loud. Not no cents in tryin' two s-plane dat un' to ya cuzz Wal-marts' speakerz is good'nuff!
thedave8, you CAN get some really good sound out of the stock head unit by simply following some simple rules stated above. Then if you "want more" you can upgrade to a 6 channel amp, aftermarket head unit and have a single 8 in the rear- coaxials in the rear and the components you already installed up front! I have done a few simple "tweeks" to my Monsoon system and I am very happy with the sound now. 10 years ago I would have had to tear out the entire "stock" system and gone crazy for sound quality. The OEMs have put a lot of time and $ into making pretty decent upgraded systems (Bose/Monsoon/Polk/Harmon Kardon/Etc) in the past 10 years so only minimal "tweeking" is necessary for an audiofile like myself.
Last edited by TAINTER; 09-12-2011 at 11:13 PM.
#17
09-13-2011, 09:07 AM
lost your meds taint???
who would pay anything like those prices?
do you think any human could,with his ears only tell the diff between 90 and 93 db in a car?,not a chance
you know your hummer stuff but you're way out on this.
check your wiring diagrams. maybe my book was made in china,the tweets are in parallel. in the cheap system and is bass it cranked there prob blown already.
drivin down the road listnin to npr or some gospel tunes average level is prob a couple watts,sensitivity dont mean beans.
one notch on vol is prob 3 db,that pretty much covers the diff
who would pay anything like those prices?
do you think any human could,with his ears only tell the diff between 90 and 93 db in a car?,not a chance
you know your hummer stuff but you're way out on this.
check your wiring diagrams. maybe my book was made in china,the tweets are in parallel. in the cheap system and is bass it cranked there prob blown already.
drivin down the road listnin to npr or some gospel tunes average level is prob a couple watts,sensitivity dont mean beans.
one notch on vol is prob 3 db,that pretty much covers the diff
Last edited by drtom; 09-13-2011 at 02:24 PM.
#19
09-13-2011, 12:37 PM
I don't think people realize that when they come into a thread and slam someone for asking a question or for having a different opinion, that it hurts the whole community. It has turned me off from the site in the past, and I can't imagine that it hasn't had the same effect for others. If we can all make a simple gut check before we post... Just a single question... "Is my reply having a positive impact on the community and those reading it?" If it isn't, reconsider posting it.
#20
09-13-2011, 02:20 PM
some people make stuff up,some say things without thinking or checking. or they exaggerate the importance of trivial stuff.
truth,accuracy,and COMMON SENSE are important.
some get angry when confgronted with truth.
i look for truth,,,but i also come here for fun!!
truth,accuracy,and COMMON SENSE are important.
some get angry when confgronted with truth.
i look for truth,,,but i also come here for fun!!