sorry for delay, just got back from vacation. the resistor goes in behind your old control head. you can get the resistors at radio shack. i have repaired 2 trucks in this manner.

 

Everything still working good?

 

Yes still working. I even disconnect the battery to see if is goin to quit working. Still working perfect.

 

Hey guys, I had the same problem and the dealer found the A/C .5 lbs low on feon which put it into emergency mode. The found the expansion valve was leaking, so they replaced it, recharged and the controls work fine again! Hope this helps someone else.

 

Your post of this is the first time I saw the resistor fix. I guess I never saw or was not interested whenever it was first posted.
I would like to thank you for posting it recently. It seems to be happening more often to more people. It happened to me and I did the fix.
Since I see people asking about it I thought I would post how I did it to help those needing more info. It's great to have people with a common interest getting together to fix things.

The procedure here is the HUNNER method of installing it. Proceed at your own risk.

• I did not disconnect the battery as I wanted to confirm this resistor fixed it instead of by some fluke disconnecting the battery did.
• Set the parking brake. Turn the key on.
• It helps to shift to Low. However leaving the key on will drive you nuts so after removing the dash piece I put it back in park.
• Disconnecting the battery would of course shut the dinger bell off. So I would recommend that and you can leave it in low to have more room, now that we know this did fix it. (fingers crossed)
• First you have to do the stick your fingers in the DC sockets and pull up and out.
• I cut me a piece of cardboard for a work surface in case solder dropped.
• I disconnected the plug from the back of the switch to get more room to work
• Find the light blue wire with black stripe. I peeled back the high quality gooey sticky black electrical tape GM chose to use far enough to expose the wire back into the loom so I could slide on some shrink wrap long enough to cover the splice.
• Call me old school, I'm old and went to school, but just as in my battery thread I make a physical connection first then solder.
• I used some forceps for a heat sink.
• I used a Radio Shack 68 ohm 1/2 watt resistor. They come 5 to a pack for $1.30 or $.26 a piece.
• If you don't know, use a low wattage iron so as not to fry the insulation on each end. Heat the wire until it pulls some solder as you feed it.
• Use some fine solder, Radio Shack still has that!
• Grabbed a short piece of shrink wrap I keep around. After the solder area cools slide the shrink wrap you remembered to slide on BEFORE you soldered over the entire splice. Use a heat gun carefully to shrink the wrap and secure and insulate your splice. I did not re-tape it at this time as I wanted to test it first. I will use a high grade of black electrical tape or some loom.

Now in transitional fall weather you can adjust the air temp but leave on the air conditioning to freshen your cabin temp and humidity!

 

Thanks for posting the resistor repair. I did the repair this past Sunday and it worked out perfectly. The photos made it easy.

 

fix worked for me as well.

 

The resistor trick worked for me! I'm sure this is just a bypass for the air conditioning's emergency mode.

 

the resistor fix trick seems worth my time. My climate control does something similar on my 06 h3, it is actually stuck on cold a/c setting. when I turn the **** nothing happens. no warm air, no hot air., just cold a/c in any mode or temp setting. I have tried calibrated to no prevail. a local shop looked at it and said the actuators aren't getting voltage, they say I shouls replace the whole temp control head for $400. good grief. I think I will try the resistor fix first. any ideas? DQ

 

the resistor fix trick seems worth my time. My climate control does something similar on my 06 h3, it is actually stuck on cold a/c setting. when I turn the **** nothing happens. no warm air, no hot air., just cold a/c in any mode or temp setting. I have tried calibrated to no prevail. a local shop looked at it and said the actuators aren't getting voltage, they say I shouls replace the whole temp control head for $400. good grief. I think I will try the resistor fix first. any ideas? DQ