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PRND321 not illuminating & No crank No start issue
Hummer H3For the Hummer driver who wants the rugged look and off road capabilities of the Hummer, but in a smaller size and with a more fuel economy friendly engine.
I have a 2007 H3. It will not crank or start. Everything on the dash lights up however the PRND321 does not illuminate when turning the key on, I also notice the shifter lock will not release even though my brake lights illuminate just fine, and when I turn the key on I am not sure if the Security light is supposed to go out when leaving the key on but mine stays illuminated, and when I try to crank I here a slight clicking at the steering column maybe from a relay.\Brand new battery installed. However car has sat for quite a few months.
Any suggestions would be great.
Thank You
Quick update. I have limited time throughout the week to work on this. I went last night and plugged in my OBD scan tool and it says no ignition found and cannot see the ECU or whatever. Anyways the dash does light up when turning the key. I do not see any damaged or broken wires at or near the steering column. Bad ignition switch maybe? how can I properly test it.
Better to provide the actual codes, not your loose interpretation.
No mention of your Trans Neutral Safety Switch (Trans Position Sensor) inspection or test?
Spray the ignitionswitch with CRC. Pics courtesy of hummerz.
Thnks for the tip. I will try this. Have not gotten to the neutral switch as the OBD is not seeing the ecu/ignition when key is on. I have to get that working first to pull OBD codes.
Update:
Had electrical diag done yesterday. Guys were very good. Got the PRND321 working due to bad contact on a relay. Everything lights up and engine cranks now. Throwing code for bad exhaust Cam sensor. Oddly the diagrams online say I should have 2 camshaft sensors. However this vehicle only has the exhaust cam sensor. They tested continuity from the sensor plug back to the PCM. All good. Put new sensor in and tested sensor working. However Diag tools showing no fluctuation in RPM from sensor when cranking. Pulled plug from the Crank sensor under car, cranked for few seconds and it did not throw a code for that and it should have. tested crank sensor wires and showing 1.1 volts on 2 wires. Techs said should be around 4-5 volts normally. They Tested the crank sensor itself and continuity on wires to pcm and all is good. Techs leaning to bad PCM module under the hood. I just ordered one and will have the techs back out thursday. They made huge progress.
Anyone else have the single camshaft sensor and not the dual?
Only 2006s and a handful of very, very early 2007s had intake and exhaust cam sensors. My 07 had only one and it was a late Nov 2006 build.
I would have ordered a PCMofNC.com mail order tuned PCM instead of spending the $$ a shelf PCM and pay locals to do the program and 10 min install. No doubt PCMs can go bad, but not a high probability on the H3s.
Good to hear things are going in a positive direction. Please keep us posted.
Only 2006s and a handful of very, very early 2007s had intake and exhaust cam sensors. My 07 had only one and it was a late Nov 2006 build.
I would have ordered a PCMofNC.com mail order tuned PCM instead of spending the $$ a shelf PCM and pay locals to do the program and 10 min install. No doubt PCMs can go bad, but not a high probability on the H3s.
Good to hear things are going in a positive direction. Please keep us posted.
Most definitely. I ordered from a very reputable Ebay PCM guy. It will come programmed with my VIN and all I need to do possibly is relearn the Securtiy to it. The techs I am using have used this company a lot of times with no issues and the seller has amazing feedback of 99.9 positive and with over 15K sales.
Let's hope a PCM swap will yield great results. These local guys are extremely good at what they do. They service all the body shops and dealers here in Tucson when they all can not find the electrical issues they call these guys. Very professional with high end diag tools and a big mobile transit van. I am very hopeful.
Ok guys, Replaced PCM from a very reputable source on Ebay, Programmed passlock, Some codes went away, Still showed bad Cam position sensor and no reading from crank sensor, Pulled crank sensor and found a bent pin not making contact, repaired pin and car fired up
Car running fine now.
Current Issues found after starting the vehicle:
1) We have a possible bad pressure valve or fuel pump. When car sits for 20-30 seconds if that then it takes quite a bit to start up. So techs let it sit and turned key on and off a few times to build fuel pressure and car immedately fired up. So either a fuel pump or pressure valve of some sort.
2) AC needs recharged and probably schrader valves replaced from it sitting for so long.
3) Coolant is flowing through the heater core just fine with no leaks but no hot air coming out of vents. Possible blend door actuator bad or stuck.
4) Transmission shift cable end broke and needs replaced. Shift solenoid on trans works perfect in each gear and registers good.
5) Service charge system warning is on. Inspected wiring for alternator. Alternator getting signal to charge but it is not outputing voltage. Needs replaced
I will post when I find out whats wrong with the other items. Other than that She is done!
Thank you for everyones help Have a great Weekend!
03-15-2024, 10:59 AM
