You are out of luck on that one. The only manual lock is on the drivers door. The engineers were trying to pinch pennies when it came to manual locks. You might try running a ratchet cable or strap of some sort from the access door where the rear tire mounts to a grab handle.

 

Previous posts here went ignored when it was pointed out that there is NO WAY to lock/unlock the rear door except the electric mechanism. A fter reading them,I looked inside and tried with zero luck. Nothing will do it so the previous writer was right. It IS a problem,and especially if it is locked,NO WAY TO GET STUFF OUT!!!
I'd love to hear about a fix.

 

Got the new window switch. Pluged it in and everything worked! Thanks guys, I love this forum.

 

Go figure, was going to order the switch this morning but yesterday as I was loading the wife up after an outpatient surgery the damn locks started working again. I have performed the "battery reset" about 5 times but I guess it had to work it out on its own.

 

I had same problem on my 2007 H3. Battery cable trick worked couple times then finally nothing worked. Bought window switch unit from gmparts.com and replaced in 5 minutes. Everything works well now with no problems for past year.

 

I had the same problem. Driver window and door locks not working. Trying the battery cable trick and checking the fuse and relay didn't help. I found a drivers side switch on Amazon for only $83 (used) and it worked perfectly.

Thanks to this forum, I saved myself more $$$.

 

Hey guys. Just wonderring if it is winter when you are having the problem. I have been having Tue same problem. But when i take out the switches and unplug them and bring them in the house and leave them to dry out and warm up. I replace them and they work for a while. I am currently trying to think of a permanent fix. I know i am cheap and a new switch will work but if i can fix it for near free and save a hundred bucks then i can't help myself... I gotta tinker.
Gonna try opening it all up and putting in to dry. And when putting back together put a very small silicagel in. And make sure the entire unit is waterproofed. Then it should not happen again.
I do rc stuff and it would probably be the same as waterproofing electronics on those.
Will see.

 

Don't know if it's the cold weather creeping in and getting to it. It's cold here for sure. Actually, I had just installed a 100 watt VHF transceiver in my H3 and it was after transmitting that mine went out. So, I was wondering if that's what blew mine .
The lamp had been out in mine for quite sometime so it was due for a change anyway. Good luck to you!

 

Once you have tried all the little tricks mentioned in the posts, and still have problem, you will need to replace the window switch in the drivers arm rest. It can be purchased on line and simply pops out of the armrest, unsrew bracket and unplug. repeat procedure and problem solved. Couple online stores are www.gmpartsdirect.com and www.partsgeek.com It cost about $200 from your dealer but can get it online for 120 to 160 dollars

 

To start off, My '07 has 72k on it, super clean with NO mods, I purchased last spring with 70k.... I decided to replace the battery for winter as PM ONLY. Never a problem starting. Found the battery was already replaced: aftermarket. I installed an Optima along with 2 new Stinger terminals. After install the vehicle started right up, however I could NOT lock with the key fob, drivers window inoperative (all other windows worked) and door locks were inoperative. I tried several mentioned resets: pulled fuses, swapped the fuses, pulled the pcm relays, swapped the relays, disconnected the battery terminals for 10mins., then tried for 30mins., even tried overnight, nothing worked. Checked the powers & grounds to the switch panel--> all good. Drove the vehicle for 3 months since, waiting for a possible relearn/reset... Nothing had changed!
The whole time this has been happening, when I hit lock or unlock, it would still arm or disarm the alarm system. So yesterday, I hit unlock, opened the door, disconnected the 2 connectors on the drivers door panel, closed the door and hit lock on the key fob. Today, I hit unlock on the key fob, connected the 2 connectors on the drivers side panel, started the vehicle, and all is working now. Drivers side window works, Doors lock when put into drive and unlock in park, and key fob locks and unlocks ALL the doors.
I've been in the automotive repair business for 30+years and never come across this in a master door switch, some sort of relay/surge protector in this master switch assy., requiring a reset procedure.