Hey everybody.. just wanted to say I havejust encountered the problem of windows and auto locks not working. But justprior to this (2 weeks) my heater fan motor would work intermittently andheadlights would dim slightly when I would pull up to a stop….. From what I’veread here I would think it is a very good possibility that it is a batterycable problem???? I will try all the tricks from here that I have read…. A newone is $180 (their proud of em)

 

stock cables are great,the conn is often criticized here but they work great too if cleaned and not over tightened and bent.

i never had trbl with stock conn on 2 h3 but because i added a 2nd batt i cut off part of the stock metal strap,keeping the good fctory crimp,and using the bolt on that strap,added some solid brass connectors, a premier install,bullet proof!

i would not ever cut the actual wire cable, clamping on even expensive connectors is never as good as the factory crimp.

 

My whole house is connected via "bolt on crimp", Never a problem.

Now my battery terminals are bolt on crimp.

Your stock cables crimp connections, are only good as long as there is never any moisture; not possible. When I cut my terminals from the stock cables, the wires were green=moisture intrusion=weak connection. Cut a little more, found the nice copper color, then used my bolt crimp terminals, packed them full of dielectric grease and tightened them down =good connection!

I can always loosen the bolts, pull out the cables, clean, and re-grease!

Your factory crimped cables, are only as good as the connection between the outer strands of wire and the inner part of the terminal.

 

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Been at this for weeks, read almost every thread I could possibly read and have tried almost every trick written. Some have worked but this being like the 5th time its happened in the last 1yr 1/2 and the tricks just stopped working but I finally ran into this thread. Like a prayer answered "IT WORKED".
I thank you so much, if your ever in NY look me up ill buy u a Drink...

Special thanks to all my Hummer family for all the assistance.

 

I have a very similar problem, my heater fan motor startedworking intermittently, head lights would dim slightly as I would come to astop. Then my driver window, power locks all stopped working. I had a blownfuse (#8, 20 amp) so I changed it. For a moment only the driver door wouldunlock with the key fob, then the fuse blew again. I took a spare 30 amp andput it in the #8 slot and all worked well. I didn’t want to lea ve a 30 in that#8 slot so I pulled it out put in another 20 amp, only to blow it again……… Ihave also replaced the master switch on the driver door…. (HELLLLLP) J

 

Well I have been completely stumped as I have changed the battery terminals, replaced the window switch, reset the fuses, I have power running into the switch and back out as I can control all other windows but I still can't get my window to go down or the doors to unlock. Followed the wiring to the switch and I still have power coming in and out of the switch. Someone mentioned a computer or something under the dash to me, anyone know what that guy could mean as I am beyond stumped. The reset trick also did not work.

 

20,000 readers and 95 comments on this topic. i would read from page 0ne!
it seems that there are a # of cures.
you will see actual experience and a lot of guesses.
in a multitude of counselors there is wisdom!

 

Happythree, I am sorry to say but I have been using forums for 10 plus years for numerous vehicles, and before I think of responding to a thread I make sure I have tried every suggestion and if I have a solution for someone elses problem then and then I only post it. I have almost 20 years experience working on vehicles doing everything from a basic Oil Change to engine swaps, Conversions from Automatic to Manual. Trouble shooting electrical however is not my strongest point. I have been able to determine it is all negative power at the moment as I tried to bypass the door locks so I could get the hatch open at least and it turns out ( Unless maybe a relay is stuck open) then it seems that it is all negative power flowing through the door locks and drivers side window.

I would rather not waste peoples time trying to help me with my issue if some little trick like the FOB trick or the touch the cables together would solve it. I even bought the new switch. Either way thanks for trying to help happythree but unfortunately your suggestion did not seem to resolve my issue. I will have to break down and go get it diagnosed at the dealer this coming week.


TO Everyone else, Thank you so much for the effort I hate paying GM for anything but it seems the dealer is going to have me by the *****.

 

Bill if you do find out what in the world causes this door lock issue would you PLEASE come back and post it here...apparently those who finally break down and go to the dealer never come back and give the outcome..if you would I know I would GREATLY appreciate it...I had to take mine in 2 weeks ago for the famous radiator problem and posted the outcome for others on here and wish everyone would do that so maybe we can all stop paying the stealerships soooo much and fix things ourselves..Thanks again in advance

 

?, could it mean the driver door control module in the driver door. that has had a reset problem and appears to have relays for the driver window.
I never had a problem there but remember reading about it here somewhere.

the driver door window switch controls the up/down relays for the window ,all in the door module where the switch is.
if you changed that switch you were working very close to those relays according to the schematic I looked at. lots of stuff in these controls huh.