P0036 Code
#11
So I had the job done, bought 2 new Eastern Catalytic direct fit converters, had them installed. Night and day difference---no more rattling, feel a little more power, etc. So that solved my Cat problem.
But, after a few days of driving the P0036 (And related P0054 and P0141) codes came back for that pesky Bank 1, Sensor 2 heater circut. I had them put brand new O2 sensors (Bosch Premium) all around, pre and post converter, so I know its for sure not the O2 sensor (I've been through 3 downstream sensors now).
Wondering what the hell else this could be. I had my mechanic, and then even the GM dealer, do electrical testing and they inspected the fuse block for corrosion, ok. Performed Load Test on harness, ok. Inspected harness for chaffing or shorting to ground, unable to find defect. Their ultimate reccomendation (of course) was a gM O2 Sensor that was $225! Clearly thats not the issue, as Bank 2 Sensor 2 doesn't get the same code after swapping O2's, and as I said I've been through 3 sensors.
My mechanic did testing before that and wiring found to be ok from ECM to O2. Wiring found to be ok from fuse to O2 sensor. Good power when key on. ECM pulses ground to O2 when key turned on. O2 heater resistance at 7-8 ohms, relatively normal. Everything working as required at this time. They thought maybe faulty O2 sensor (not that now) or ECM could be potential cause.
Anyone have any other ideas for what this could be? My next thought is to maybe just try a new harness....but I'm lost for words here....
But, after a few days of driving the P0036 (And related P0054 and P0141) codes came back for that pesky Bank 1, Sensor 2 heater circut. I had them put brand new O2 sensors (Bosch Premium) all around, pre and post converter, so I know its for sure not the O2 sensor (I've been through 3 downstream sensors now).
Wondering what the hell else this could be. I had my mechanic, and then even the GM dealer, do electrical testing and they inspected the fuse block for corrosion, ok. Performed Load Test on harness, ok. Inspected harness for chaffing or shorting to ground, unable to find defect. Their ultimate reccomendation (of course) was a gM O2 Sensor that was $225! Clearly thats not the issue, as Bank 2 Sensor 2 doesn't get the same code after swapping O2's, and as I said I've been through 3 sensors.
My mechanic did testing before that and wiring found to be ok from ECM to O2. Wiring found to be ok from fuse to O2 sensor. Good power when key on. ECM pulses ground to O2 when key turned on. O2 heater resistance at 7-8 ohms, relatively normal. Everything working as required at this time. They thought maybe faulty O2 sensor (not that now) or ECM could be potential cause.
Anyone have any other ideas for what this could be? My next thought is to maybe just try a new harness....but I'm lost for words here....
#12
So I had the job done, bought 2 new Eastern Catalytic direct fit converters, had them installed. Night and day difference---no more rattling, feel a little more power, etc. So that solved my Cat problem.
But, after a few days of driving the P0036 (And related P0054 and P0141) codes came back for that pesky Bank 1, Sensor 2 heater circut. I had them put brand new O2 sensors (Bosch Premium) all around, pre and post converter, so I know its for sure not the O2 sensor (I've been through 3 downstream sensors now).
Wondering what the hell else this could be. I had my mechanic, and then even the GM dealer, do electrical testing and they inspected the fuse block for corrosion, ok. Performed Load Test on harness, ok. Inspected harness for chaffing or shorting to ground, unable to find defect. Their ultimate reccomendation (of course) was a gM O2 Sensor that was $225! Clearly thats not the issue, as Bank 2 Sensor 2 doesn't get the same code after swapping O2's, and as I said I've been through 3 sensors.
My mechanic did testing before that and wiring found to be ok from ECM to O2. Wiring found to be ok from fuse to O2 sensor. Good power when key on. ECM pulses ground to O2 when key turned on. O2 heater resistance at 7-8 ohms, relatively normal. Everything working as required at this time. They thought maybe faulty O2 sensor (not that now) or ECM could be potential cause.
Anyone have any other ideas for what this could be? My next thought is to maybe just try a new harness....but I'm lost for words here....
But, after a few days of driving the P0036 (And related P0054 and P0141) codes came back for that pesky Bank 1, Sensor 2 heater circut. I had them put brand new O2 sensors (Bosch Premium) all around, pre and post converter, so I know its for sure not the O2 sensor (I've been through 3 downstream sensors now).
Wondering what the hell else this could be. I had my mechanic, and then even the GM dealer, do electrical testing and they inspected the fuse block for corrosion, ok. Performed Load Test on harness, ok. Inspected harness for chaffing or shorting to ground, unable to find defect. Their ultimate reccomendation (of course) was a gM O2 Sensor that was $225! Clearly thats not the issue, as Bank 2 Sensor 2 doesn't get the same code after swapping O2's, and as I said I've been through 3 sensors.
My mechanic did testing before that and wiring found to be ok from ECM to O2. Wiring found to be ok from fuse to O2 sensor. Good power when key on. ECM pulses ground to O2 when key turned on. O2 heater resistance at 7-8 ohms, relatively normal. Everything working as required at this time. They thought maybe faulty O2 sensor (not that now) or ECM could be potential cause.
Anyone have any other ideas for what this could be? My next thought is to maybe just try a new harness....but I'm lost for words here....
#13
Nope, no fix yet. The other day, I tried just changing the fuse for the heck of it, and cleared the code. A few hours later, 9 new codes came back (ALL o2 sensor codes possible), so I went back to the new fuse and it had blown---telling me something electrical is up. I went out and bought more 15A blue fuses, put a new one in, cleared the code, and for the past 2 days (probably 15-20 starts), no codes have come back up yet. I read that it takes 3 consecutive fails for it to trigger those o2 heater resistance codes, so all good so far. I'm anticipating that it will come back, but maybe I get lucky and it doesn't? Will update here as soon as I have more news.
#14
Yup, spoke too soon. CEL came back on tonight. Same 3 codes all related to O2 Heater Resistance on Bank 1 Sensor 2 (P0035, P0054, P0141), but now am also getting a P0060 code for the Bank 2, Sensor 2 sensor.
I saw someone else post somewhere that the lousy stock battery terminals might cause some weird electrical issues. I ordered 2x Stinger SPT53501 Battery Terminals, will have those installed next week as a first step. But other than that, the only "answers" I've been given are: change the ECM (from my mechanic---estimated $750ish), or use GM O2 sensors (from the GM dealer---estimate $675---crazy). I know it can't be the O2's because my original AC delco's on there threw the same code at the start. They still work so I can have the GM guys pop them back in to see that its something else....even though all the electrical testing checks out. The blown fuse yesterday that I found tells me also that its something else. The fuse I've put in since hasn't blown.
Hate these electrical issues. The only issues I've had with my H3 Alpha ever have been weird electrical issues/ Emission related engine codes that are electrical in nature. I baby and maintain the thing tooo...fun ride otherwise. On the bright side, driveability doesn't seem to be affected during all this at all....just I hate looking at that stupid orange CEL light! Huge pain!
I saw someone else post somewhere that the lousy stock battery terminals might cause some weird electrical issues. I ordered 2x Stinger SPT53501 Battery Terminals, will have those installed next week as a first step. But other than that, the only "answers" I've been given are: change the ECM (from my mechanic---estimated $750ish), or use GM O2 sensors (from the GM dealer---estimate $675---crazy). I know it can't be the O2's because my original AC delco's on there threw the same code at the start. They still work so I can have the GM guys pop them back in to see that its something else....even though all the electrical testing checks out. The blown fuse yesterday that I found tells me also that its something else. The fuse I've put in since hasn't blown.
Hate these electrical issues. The only issues I've had with my H3 Alpha ever have been weird electrical issues/ Emission related engine codes that are electrical in nature. I baby and maintain the thing tooo...fun ride otherwise. On the bright side, driveability doesn't seem to be affected during all this at all....just I hate looking at that stupid orange CEL light! Huge pain!
#15
Hate these electrical issues. The only issues I've had with my H3 Alpha ever have been weird electrical issues/ Emission related engine codes that are electrical in nature. I baby and maintain the thing tooo...fun ride otherwise. On the bright side, driveability doesn't seem to be affected during all this at all....just I hate looking at that stupid orange CEL light! Huge pain!
Let me know if you ever do come up with a fix and I'll do the same.
Thanks
#16
Will do. What's weird is I had these issues BEFORE changing my cats, and specifically bought the direct fit (Eastern Catalytic GM) to avoid any after-market or universal cat issues.
Have had the P0036 with my original AC delco sensor, with Bosch, and NTK replacements. Downstream only.
At a loss here
Have had the P0036 with my original AC delco sensor, with Bosch, and NTK replacements. Downstream only.
At a loss here
#17
Yup, spoke too soon. CEL came back on tonight. Same 3 codes all related to O2 Heater Resistance on Bank 1 Sensor 2 (P0035, P0054, P0141), but now am also getting a P0060 code for the Bank 2, Sensor 2 sensor.
I saw someone else post somewhere that the lousy stock battery terminals might cause some weird electrical issues. I ordered 2x Stinger SPT53501 Battery Terminals, will have those installed next week as a first step. But other than that, the only "answers" I've been given are: change the ECM (from my mechanic---estimated $750ish), or use GM O2 sensors (from the GM dealer---estimate $675---crazy). I know it can't be the O2's because my original AC delco's on there threw the same code at the start. They still work so I can have the GM guys pop them back in to see that its something else....even though all the electrical testing checks out. The blown fuse yesterday that I found tells me also that its something else. The fuse I've put in since hasn't blown.
Hate these electrical issues. The only issues I've had with my H3 Alpha ever have been weird electrical issues/ Emission related engine codes that are electrical in nature. I baby and maintain the thing tooo...fun ride otherwise. On the bright side, driveability doesn't seem to be affected during all this at all....just I hate looking at that stupid orange CEL light! Huge pain!
I saw someone else post somewhere that the lousy stock battery terminals might cause some weird electrical issues. I ordered 2x Stinger SPT53501 Battery Terminals, will have those installed next week as a first step. But other than that, the only "answers" I've been given are: change the ECM (from my mechanic---estimated $750ish), or use GM O2 sensors (from the GM dealer---estimate $675---crazy). I know it can't be the O2's because my original AC delco's on there threw the same code at the start. They still work so I can have the GM guys pop them back in to see that its something else....even though all the electrical testing checks out. The blown fuse yesterday that I found tells me also that its something else. The fuse I've put in since hasn't blown.
Hate these electrical issues. The only issues I've had with my H3 Alpha ever have been weird electrical issues/ Emission related engine codes that are electrical in nature. I baby and maintain the thing tooo...fun ride otherwise. On the bright side, driveability doesn't seem to be affected during all this at all....just I hate looking at that stupid orange CEL light! Huge pain!
#18
Yup, spoke too soon. CEL came back on tonight. Same 3 codes all related to O2 Heater Resistance on Bank 1 Sensor 2 (P0035, P0054, P0141), but now am also getting a P0060 code for the Bank 2, Sensor 2 sensor.
I saw someone else post somewhere that the lousy stock battery terminals might cause some weird electrical issues. I ordered 2x Stinger SPT53501 Battery Terminals, will have those installed next week as a first step. !
I saw someone else post somewhere that the lousy stock battery terminals might cause some weird electrical issues. I ordered 2x Stinger SPT53501 Battery Terminals, will have those installed next week as a first step. !
Always do the easy stuff first, before you waste time to chase down electrical Gremlins. It may not turn out to be your problem, but it is a necessary mod none the less.
#19
I went ahead and replaced the negative terminal with a stinger SPT53501 terminal. I ordered two because they said good for positive AND negative, but it ended up being too small for the positive so I did only the negative so far and waiting for the positive to come in now. Thanks for the suggestions DocOlds, they look like nice beefy metal.
as another update, I had my mechanic take down the new cats I installed, remove the RTV sealant, and replace with metal OEM 5.3 gaskets. The engine light came back on today, but now it’s showing just 2 codes—P0054 and P0060, the heater resistance for both downstream oxygen sensors (Bank 1 and 2). As I said earlier they are Bosch premium ones, and are the third set I’ve tried (I had my original AC delco’s on when the P0054 first came up, and have tried NTK and now these Bosch ones). I don’t think it can be 3 bad sets of sensors, so I’ll have to take it back into GM to look further. Their electrical guy last time thought the RTV sealant at the cat connection to the manifolds might have been messing up continuity, and to remove that first to start. He didn’t notice anything else (cracked or frayed wiring, anything out of spec)...so the search continues.
on the bright side driceability is fine, I just hate seeing that damn CEL. Any other suggestions would be much appreciated!
as another update, I had my mechanic take down the new cats I installed, remove the RTV sealant, and replace with metal OEM 5.3 gaskets. The engine light came back on today, but now it’s showing just 2 codes—P0054 and P0060, the heater resistance for both downstream oxygen sensors (Bank 1 and 2). As I said earlier they are Bosch premium ones, and are the third set I’ve tried (I had my original AC delco’s on when the P0054 first came up, and have tried NTK and now these Bosch ones). I don’t think it can be 3 bad sets of sensors, so I’ll have to take it back into GM to look further. Their electrical guy last time thought the RTV sealant at the cat connection to the manifolds might have been messing up continuity, and to remove that first to start. He didn’t notice anything else (cracked or frayed wiring, anything out of spec)...so the search continues.
on the bright side driceability is fine, I just hate seeing that damn CEL. Any other suggestions would be much appreciated!
#20
Update: Swapped out the Bosch sensors for 4 new AC Delco OEM’s. Also changed my positive terminal for a Stinger one (so I have stinger terminals on positive and negative now).
still getting P0036. Oddly the other codes don’t come up now (so some progress maybe), but still getting that stupid P0036 for the bank 1 sensor 2 heater circuit.
unsure of what to do at this point. GM Dealer and my mechanic both say likely the ECM. But I have a hard time believing that could be it, with no other codes or symptoms. And it’s $800 to get through them and final sale (so if it’s put in and doesn’t work, tough luck).
anyone else have any hypotheses that they might have missed?
still getting P0036. Oddly the other codes don’t come up now (so some progress maybe), but still getting that stupid P0036 for the bank 1 sensor 2 heater circuit.
unsure of what to do at this point. GM Dealer and my mechanic both say likely the ECM. But I have a hard time believing that could be it, with no other codes or symptoms. And it’s $800 to get through them and final sale (so if it’s put in and doesn’t work, tough luck).
anyone else have any hypotheses that they might have missed?