Having P0017 & P0014 issues similar to other threads. Hope this thread helps out others with similar issues.


Background:

Bought our 2006 H3 w 135K kms 2 years ago. Current mileage is 165K kms and I am experiencing P0017 and P0014 with stalling and rough idle. Also sounds like the timing chain is banging around at idle..goes away under throttle. What is odd -> have oil accumulating on top of engine close to filler cap - see below. Filler cap o-ring looks fine, no cracks on the engine head. Has me thinking my issues may be tied to some sort of oil blockage.



Effort to resolve:

1. Cleaned MAF and Throttle body 2x with correct cleaners
2. Cleaned VVT Solenoid and also tried replacing it. Have orig and also replacement. Screens were intact. There were some metal shavings on the 3rd screen. at this time I am back to original VVT since I have not retrained the new one. Seen a number of threads that say it should be retrained with a Tech2 tool.
3. Tried cleaning the cam sensors then replaced them
4. Replaced air filter
5. Oil changed 2500km ago - again this weekend
6. Seafoam’d added to oil and gas tank – effort to clean components/carbon
7. Changed spark plugs. One of the coils was corroded when I changed the plugs and its plug was more black than others. I tried cleaning it.

After the H3 has been running for 15-20 mins, it loses power…feels like it drops a cylinder but no related codes. Changed spark plugs last weekend to OEM ACDelco and it felt more powerful but the power reduction issue continued.

This past weekend on a short drive it flashed reduced power then went into a limp mode that stalled. Tried starting and it would crank but not turn over. The starter definitely had a different sound..almost faster. Had it towed home. Have not tried to start it since…



Next step:

On Friday I plan to change oil using the ACDelco backflap filter PF61E and also swap all coils…fingers crossed. Will report back.

Recommendations on how to best flush the engine and oil system? Lots of crazy idea out there - diesel, kerosine, ATF fluid. Thinking a flush is a good idea.

 

Your timing chain likely skipped a tooth. See I think it may be dead for good now

 

if the starter sounds faster it probably is not building compression. skipped timing or bent valves.

 

Thanks. I read that thread.

 

Will know Friday and will update. Thanks.

 

Replaced the coils and changed oil & filter today. H3 cranks but (sounds like almost there) will not start. Any tips on:

A. How to test the new coils without special tools?
B. How to test coil wiring without special tools?
C. Test fuel pump and associate parts/relay etc?
D. Any other ideas?

Fearing the engine may be toast, I filled half the oil volume only half way. Long shot..any chance that would cause a no start?

 

Measure the crankshaft end play to determine if it is within the specification of 0.0044in - 0.0153in (0.112 - 0.388 mm). If the crankshaft end play is only .001in or so above specification, it is probably not causing this concern. Typically, if excessive crankshaft end play is causing this concern, it will be obviously out of specification by as much as .050in or more when a pry bar is used to move the crankshaft back and forth. Normally it is so obvious that you can see the excessive movement without using a dial indicator.
If the crankshaft end play is obviously out of specification, engine replacement is suggested to prevent DTCs P0014 and/or P0017 from returning again due to trace amounts of thrust bearing debris that may remain inside of the engine during alternate repairs, such as crankshaft and bearing replacement.
If you prefer to repair the engine instead of replace it due to special circumstances, such as an engine backorder situation, no warranty coverage left, or the customer would prefer to have their original engine repaired, you may replace the crankshaft and bearings if the engine block is repairable and it is more cost-effective to repair the engine. Note: Due to the sensitivity of the CMP actuator system and the tight clearances in the Cam Actuator, the vehicle may return with DTCs P0014 and/or P0017 if you do not get 100% of the old thrust bearing debris out of the engine when the repairs are made. If you decide to replace the crankshaft and bearings for this concern, first remove the oil pan to inspect the engine block and determine if it has been damaged by the crankshaft. If engine block damage is present, replace the engine. If no engine block damage is present, completely is assemble the engine and inspect everything that could have been damaged by the thrust bearing debris, such as the cam bearing journals, cam lobes, cam followers, lash adjusters, timing chain and guides, oil pump, etc... The CMP actuator solenoid and sprocket assembly should be replaced due to thrust bearing material that may be trapped inside of either component. Before replacing the damaged/contaminated components and reassembling the engine, thoroughly clean all of the cylinder head and engine block oil galleys with oil galley brushes and soapy water. Also, thoroughly clean all other areas of the engine that would have contacted the old oil and thrust bearing debris, such as the inside of the cam cover, front cover, rear cover, timing chain guides, oil pan, oil galleys in the nose of the exhaust camshaft, etc.. Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.

PIP3694F

 

Thanks for above. I'm coming to the idea that I need a new engine. Anyone recommend a chevy mechanic in the Toronto area?



latest vid... topped up the new oil change and it struggled but then fired up. Codes P0017 (timing) & P0300 (misfire). Sounds bad..then stalled. Will not start now at all for hours. Any way to test the fuel system? https://photos.app.goo.gl/HXYNWMtzazNbruDo7

 

Did you check CK end play? You can test fuel system with a propane tank and a hose. Insert hose into cai, get an assistant to start vehicle(or get a longer hose), open the valve on the tank while cranking the engine. Will start and run until the propane tank goes empty, if not, there's another problem.

 

Whooa. That sounds dangerous.

I do not have tools to check CK end play. trying to find a local mechanic I can trust. Been working in older Bimmers for years and this chev block has be stumped.