Hummer H3 For the Hummer driver who wants the rugged look and off road capabilities of the Hummer, but in a smaller size and with a more fuel economy friendly engine.

The oil light (word) and the oil can blink on the dash with loud dinging noise in cab

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  #11  
Old 07-22-2016, 07:36 AM
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BCM is the Body Control Module (works in conjunction with the PCM, Powertrain Control Module). It is located in the passenger footwell, on the body. I wouldn't switch to a heavier oil, are you planning to switch it out in the winter for the correct oil? Heavier oil will put a bigger strain on the oil pump, not necessarily upping the pressure at the crank journals. However, summer in the south with a high mileage engine will probably work for a while, just remember it will be a lot thicker in winter.
 
  #12  
Old 07-22-2016, 09:10 AM
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Hi rsc:-),
Thanks for responding. Ok, great! I will leave the oil as is and change the oil pressure sending unit along with BCM. Thanks for all your help. I will touch base again after I have completed the mission. I will be checking in about a week or so. Thanks again and have a wonderful weekend😃!
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  #13  
Old 08-22-2016, 12:20 AM
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Over the last couple of months I have had a problem with my 2007 H3 flashing a very annoying Oil light and loud dinging noise every time the vehicle was at temperature and I came to a complete stop. After extensive searching I managed to trouble shoot the issue by raising the RMP at stop to 1K and the light would turn off and noise would stop. It was the Oil Pressure Sensor; which despite numerous searches and errant information is infact located right above the oil filter. Again following the advice of many forum "Advisors" I began the work and I will tell you what I found to be true:

1) The sensor is infact located right above the Oil Filter
2) If you are not changing the oil filter at the same time there is no room to fit you hand in to access the sensor from the bottom of the vehicle.
3) YOU CANNOT simply use a socket to remove the sensor, YOU MUST have a special socket made for the Oil Pressure Sensor to fit. ( it is larger than 1" and has a unique design that does NOT conform to traditional sockets.)
4) Again if not removing the oil filter the sensor can easily be accessed from the engine compartment by removing the AIR FILTER BOX
(3 clips secure the top of the box, three 1/2 inch nuts and bolts secure the box to the engine compartment, one screw secures the air box to the intake, one sensor must be disconnected from the airbox to remove it from the vehicle.)
5) It takes a little effort to get the socket and ratchet in place, work with it a bit and you can get it on.
6) you spend approx. $11 for the socket to break it loose then you can unscrew it by hand. Save a trip to the parts store and buy it in advance.
7) Make sure the parts guy provides you with the correct part in the first place, Oreilley did not, dude is dyslexic, another trip to the part store.
8) With the proper approach, tools and part this is less than a One Hour part replacement that can be done by the less than experienced owner.

I hope this information helps with a topic that is often explored but never seems to have a satisfactory conclusion that provides actual details.

Information about my H3, 07 with just over 100K, extended warranty is gone so now it is up to me. I have more back than money so I will put my back into it.
 
  #14  
Old 08-22-2016, 01:51 AM
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Hi mfitch89:-),

Thank you very much! This issue subsided after I changed to Mobil oil along with a new Mobil filter. While I was implementing the new oil stuff, I ordered the oil pressure sensor per advisement of helpful Hummer members. I do have this part but have not attempted to install as of yet. Probably because I needed for you to submit your expertise and advisement on the issue. Therefore, I will be visiting O'Reilley's for the socket that I will need to install the new oil pressure sensor along with following your great and very detailed instructions. I want to be certain that I understand something. I can replace the sensor from the engine compartment by referencing instruction #4 and the rest of the instructions thereafter, correct? Again, thank you so much for taking the time to respond and help. Have a wonderful upcoming week!

Ethan's Driver
 
  #15  
Old 08-22-2016, 12:33 PM
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That is correct, follow instructions starting at #4 and you will be fine.

Thanks for the kind words about my instructions, I hope this reduces the level of frustration for many more people when researching this issue.
 
  #16  
Old 09-09-2016, 11:19 AM
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Hello mfitch89:-),

Thank you so much! Just received your response because the email was in spam. I have all of the items needed to get the job done and will be installing part this weekend. Wishing you a wonderful upcoming weekend!

Ethan's Driver
 
  #17  
Old 01-15-2017, 11:56 AM
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i used a big open end wrench. took airbox off. pain in the butt. but 1/10th turn at a time, i got it. no oil leaked out, no pressure. was very easy to do ONCE YOUR WRIST IS DEAD. lol but i went from top down. i have med to large hands. not even a scraped knuckle. but it was pain in butt going so slowly turning wrench. took about 20 minutes
it is 1 inch above oil filter. but i took off air box
 
  #18  
Old 01-15-2017, 11:57 AM
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but after i did the change.....oil light still pops on after warming up and driving. like the oil was too thin. havent changed to heavier oil....id rather fix the problem... so back to drawing board
 
  #19  
Old 06-23-2019, 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by robert.bruorton
but after i did the change.....oil light still pops on after warming up and driving. like the oil was too thin. havent changed to heavier oil....id rather fix the problem... so back to drawing board
Did you figure out the oil light thing?
 
  #20  
Old 06-24-2019, 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Foreign Lorren
Did you figure out the oil light thing?
Welcome to HF.

AVOID, I mean AVOID.... digging up OLD Threads to tack on your question, not the way to do it here. Click my link to read about Necro-Bumping.

READ: Old Threads/'Necro-Bumping'
 


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