Notes on Replaceing H3 Factory Monsoon Speakers
I did a lot of research before I tackeled this Project and found that alot of missinfomation / or no info at all was out there on the net.
The monsoon sytems sounds great for a amplified Factory system, if you keep the OEM radio. I upgraded to AVIC F 900 and the power was just too much for those Paper Cone Speakers.
First of I was able to find Speaker Harness for the 4 door speakers and tweeters (Even though everywhere on the net says you have to cut the tweeters) The Harnesses are Metra 72-4568 And they actually fit the Tweeters Perfect, On the four door speakers you will need to shave a small tab off of the harness coming out of the door but it is easy to see and takes two seconds with the razor blade. In case you do not know you need a speaker harness for each speaker, so three packs of two will do. You would still be able to reinstall the old speakers with no problem if need be. I put in Alpine SPS-600C 6 1/2 with 1" Tweets in the front and Alpine SPS-600 6 1/2 two ways in the back. The sound is so crisp compared to the factory. I got these and the harnesses at Best Buy.
Installing the tweets was the hardest, simply because they will not fit with out cutting some plastic that use to hold the old tweets, and some good ol HOT MELT GLUE. Hot melt glue is great way to make something stick to plastic, but can still be removed. I suppose that because I cut the tabs on that held in the original tweets, you would have to hot melt glue them back into place but no one would ever know!
Taking off the door panels was easy, there are posts on this forum that show how. Really you do not even need to take it all the way off just undo the two torx bolts on the door handle and pop the bottom of the panel up enough to squeez your head in there. One cool thing I figured out on the last speaker that could have saved me some time is that you really only need to take out one screw and the Speaker comes out with a nice plastic bracket, that you can then remove the 4 screws and change the speakers out. I should have taken pictures but my wife has our camera at the beach this week. Anyways all four doors and tweets took about 1 hour, not bad at all.
On to the SUB, I kept reading all these post about how you can't replace the sub, it's hard wired in, blah blah blah. You can replace the sub just like the other six speakers. The key is IMO, to not get a very fancy high end sub, If you want to continue to use the Factory Amp. And reguardless of what you read on the internet, the FACTORY MONSOON Sub is 8" Not 10".
Even Metra's website says it is a 10", it's not it is an 8"
Secondly, the SUB does have a Harness but I could not find one to match it. But, what you can do is Cut the wires off of the SUB and soder those right back on to the new sub, STILL haveing the quick connect harness.
I bought a JL W1 It's an older model speaker they are phasing out over at crutchfield (right now it is BUY ONE GET ONE FREE, what am I going to do with this extra sub? ebay!!) This was the only speaker they had in stock that does not use the newer RCA SUB CONNECTORS. These are the kind you can still soder!! Perfect for the harness I just cut off the old speaker.
Of Course the Holes do not line up but just cover the old holes up with Electrical tape, get some short Sheetmetal Screws and go to town.
This speaker needs lesser watts than newer speakers and works great with the factory amp. Now I have no more PAPER CONE speakers.
I will be selling the entire OEM speaker set on EBAY if anyone is interested. my seller name is nic87711778. I have to wait until my wife gets back with the camera so I can take photos!!!
The monsoon sytems sounds great for a amplified Factory system, if you keep the OEM radio. I upgraded to AVIC F 900 and the power was just too much for those Paper Cone Speakers.
First of I was able to find Speaker Harness for the 4 door speakers and tweeters (Even though everywhere on the net says you have to cut the tweeters) The Harnesses are Metra 72-4568 And they actually fit the Tweeters Perfect, On the four door speakers you will need to shave a small tab off of the harness coming out of the door but it is easy to see and takes two seconds with the razor blade. In case you do not know you need a speaker harness for each speaker, so three packs of two will do. You would still be able to reinstall the old speakers with no problem if need be. I put in Alpine SPS-600C 6 1/2 with 1" Tweets in the front and Alpine SPS-600 6 1/2 two ways in the back. The sound is so crisp compared to the factory. I got these and the harnesses at Best Buy.
Installing the tweets was the hardest, simply because they will not fit with out cutting some plastic that use to hold the old tweets, and some good ol HOT MELT GLUE. Hot melt glue is great way to make something stick to plastic, but can still be removed. I suppose that because I cut the tabs on that held in the original tweets, you would have to hot melt glue them back into place but no one would ever know!
Taking off the door panels was easy, there are posts on this forum that show how. Really you do not even need to take it all the way off just undo the two torx bolts on the door handle and pop the bottom of the panel up enough to squeez your head in there. One cool thing I figured out on the last speaker that could have saved me some time is that you really only need to take out one screw and the Speaker comes out with a nice plastic bracket, that you can then remove the 4 screws and change the speakers out. I should have taken pictures but my wife has our camera at the beach this week. Anyways all four doors and tweets took about 1 hour, not bad at all.
On to the SUB, I kept reading all these post about how you can't replace the sub, it's hard wired in, blah blah blah. You can replace the sub just like the other six speakers. The key is IMO, to not get a very fancy high end sub, If you want to continue to use the Factory Amp. And reguardless of what you read on the internet, the FACTORY MONSOON Sub is 8" Not 10".
Even Metra's website says it is a 10", it's not it is an 8"
Secondly, the SUB does have a Harness but I could not find one to match it. But, what you can do is Cut the wires off of the SUB and soder those right back on to the new sub, STILL haveing the quick connect harness.
I bought a JL W1 It's an older model speaker they are phasing out over at crutchfield (right now it is BUY ONE GET ONE FREE, what am I going to do with this extra sub? ebay!!) This was the only speaker they had in stock that does not use the newer RCA SUB CONNECTORS. These are the kind you can still soder!! Perfect for the harness I just cut off the old speaker.
Of Course the Holes do not line up but just cover the old holes up with Electrical tape, get some short Sheetmetal Screws and go to town.
This speaker needs lesser watts than newer speakers and works great with the factory amp. Now I have no more PAPER CONE speakers.
I will be selling the entire OEM speaker set on EBAY if anyone is interested. my seller name is nic87711778. I have to wait until my wife gets back with the camera so I can take photos!!!
Last edited by patricktheelder; Jul 8, 2009 at 01:54 PM.
Thanks so much for the info! I will take that extra sub off your hands, my factory sub is on its way to going out as you can hear the paper cone rattling with bass heavy songs. PM me to work out a deal! I am also looking to change out all of the paper cones. I will be keeping the factory head unit for now, but the speakers tend to bottom out and distort with bass heavy songs. Post some pics when you get a chance! Also, how did you go about removing the rear panel to get to the sub?
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/12327.pdf
Here is a link to instructions on how to install a JL stealth Box.
It explains how to Remove the back panel,
Disreguard any steps that involve removing anything inside the wheel well, it is not needed.
Just undo the Seat Belt Bolt at the top, and the screw behind the cap, above the seatbelt, then just PULL
Here is a link to instructions on how to install a JL stealth Box.
It explains how to Remove the back panel,
Disreguard any steps that involve removing anything inside the wheel well, it is not needed.
Just undo the Seat Belt Bolt at the top, and the screw behind the cap, above the seatbelt, then just PULL
patricktheelder, thanks for the notes here, was helpful and as you said i didnt need to remove the wheel well to get to the amp/sub
some pics to illustrate
http://picasaweb.google.com/10817553...ubPanelRemoval
my overhaul going on here
https://www.hummerforums.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=20041
thanks again
some pics to illustrate
http://picasaweb.google.com/10817553...ubPanelRemoval
my overhaul going on here
https://www.hummerforums.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=20041
thanks again
use the stock wiring (except for the tweeters in the pillars) ... i made myself insane and broke a door wiring harness trying to get new speaker wire to the front doors ... now its running just fine of the stock speaker wire. i think even cheap aftermarket speakers would be a big upgrade to the paper crap that comes with the monsoon ... i'll put more info on my thread, i dont want to totally hijack this one
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