Hello everyone,


I am currently trying to verify the positioning and depth of the DIY intake cam position sensor on my 2006 H3's make-shift 2008 3.7L I5.

If anyone happens to have photos of theirs or even better, if yours is apart right now, could you please share your photos and/or measurements? The photos below are what I'm looking for, but on a true 2006 model year I5. I want to verify the position of my cam sensor hole as well as how close the cam sensor face is to the cam sprocket.

Thank you!


Position of cam sensor hole when viewed from the front of the vehicle looking towards the engine.

Image of hole from RockAuto (slightly skewed view and low resolution)


Distance between the sensing face of the intake cam sensor and the intake cam sprocket.

Just from visual inspection, I feel the position of the hole should be a little lower and the cam sensor face should be closer to the sprocket.

 

All different types of speed position sensors need an air gap.

 

Thank you for those informative videos. I know they need a gap, but the gap on mine looks gigantic. I used feelers to gauge the distance between the reluctor wheel and exhaust camshaft sensor and compared it to the intake side. My intake side sensor is much further away from the sprocket. Also, the intake sensor does not seem very well placed in relation to the square timing cutouts on the intake cam sprocket. Based on the information provided in the second video, I imagine: (1) the amplitude of the signal is not correct *and* (2) the physical location the sensor senses does not provide accurate timing information to the PCM. The sporadic crank w/no-start could very well be related to the misalignment of timing squares and sensor "toe" as well as incorrect amplitude of signal, especially considering this sensor mount was not machined very well and was an "aftermarket" modification.

I know I cling to anything with the possibility of solving this intermittent crank no-start, but this really seems like it could be it.

The engine is getting air, fuel, and spark during most crank no-start scenarios (much rarer occasions does the engine not have fuel during a crank no-start scenario). The engine has good compression and is producing exhaust. The mechanical timing is correct. The only thing left is crank/cam shaft related PCM timing, which these issues could be related to. This sensor is definitely not properly located and has what seems to be too much of an air gap based on the limited information I've gathered online.

 

I found a piece of hose to match the diameter of the sensor's hole. I am using it as a visual aid to show just how poorly aligned this thing looks. The hose is larger in diameter than the "toe" of the sensor, but it gets the job done, visually.

I am going to head to a junkyard tomorrow on my parts-getter (bicycle) and get some measurements from a 2006 Chevy Colorado. I expect to find a measurable difference in air gap and positioning. I think this is the golden nugget to resolving my intermittent crank no-start issues.





From these photos, I can conclude the timing lobes are not fully "seen" by the sensor (the outmost portions fall outside of the sensor's "toe."

 

I made some measurements on a 3.5L I5 at the junkyard and found the positioning and air gap of the factory set up is grossly different than the one on my H3's engine.

Here are some photos for anyone's future reference (if ever converting a newer engine to work with the 2006 PCM):


(Photo of factory setup) Sensor toe is positioned approximately centered over timing lobes.

(Photo of factory setup) Air gap is 0.045 of an inch.

(Photo of factory setup) Air gap is 0.045 of an inch.

 

You lost me @ starts & runs without cel.

 

Mhm... I have no clue how. With the current positioning, the sensor does not see what it is supposed to.. This explains my weird idle, too. My idle has a very mild cyclical stumble. It was so minor, uniform, and consistent I thought it was normal.

 

Now I have to decide what route I am going to take to properly position this thing... I would prefer to use a welder to fill in the old holes so I can properly drill the sensor hole and drill/tap the mounting bolt. My "quicker" option is to ovalize the holes and use JB weld to "mould" in the correct spot. I believe both options would work, but the first is much more desirable.