Okay, I upgraded my interior lights, the overhead lighting, cargo lighting, and front floor lighting over to led bulbs. All worked great after. I decided to upgrade the vanity lighting in the sun visors as well. Did the driver’s side, all good. Started to do the passenger side, and my interior lights, both overheads, and floor light all went out. The vanity lights are dim as heck, but there is power to them it would seem. I tried looking for a fuse for the interior lighting but do not see it on the fuse listings. I even disconnected the battery terminals to reset the pcm. Nothing, except dim vanity light. Overhead override is off.

Anyone know if there is a fuse or reset for the interior lights?

 

Bad bulbs maybe?

 

I tried the old bulbs and still have the same issue. I’m going to use a test light on the fuses to see if I have any blown or weak fuses next.

 

Okay, I checked all the fuses, and they all are good. And yes, the bulbs are directional indeed. Used a test light to check, and they only flow one direction. All my led’s are still good. My originals all are shot.

Crazy thing, in checking all the instruments, and everything, the turn signals are affected by what ever happened. They flash fast, and only the back illuminate. Hazards as well. AND, when I turn my blower up to 4, the radio shuts off. Still blowing and cold air coming out, just the radio turns off. Which with the model is weird, as as long as the key is in the on/running position, it illuminates no matter what. But now completely turns off when I put the blower to high.

Everyone worked great after I changed the overhead lights, rear cargo lights, front floor lights, and drivers side vanity lights. The issue happened installing the passenger side vanity lights.

 

If you have a test meter, start checking voltages -- Including ground.

Verify that you have a good ground right from the battery to the body. With the volt meter set to volts, put the negative lead on the negative battery post itself. Put the positive lead on a good paint-free spot on the body -- like a bolt or something. Turn on some of the affected lights, radio, etc. The meter should stay very close to 0.0 -- perhaps a few 10ths of a volt at most.

This verifies that you can trust the body as a good ground.

Now move to inside the vehicle. With the meter negative (-) probe on a paint free spot on the body, put the (+) lead on the positive side of an affected bulb socket or perhaps the accessory outlet. The voltage on the (+) side should be near 12VDC,

Then move the (+) test meter lead to the negative (-) side of the bulb. The voltage on the (-) side should be near 0.0VDC. If the negative side shows more than a few 1/10th's of a volt, you have a ground problem.

Since so many things are affected, I am suspecting a ground problem -- the negative side of "stuff" "lifting from" (becoming positive relative to) the body ground shows a grounding problem.

If the (-) side stays close to ground (close to zero), but the (+) side is significantly less than 12, then you have a power source problem.

 

Thank you for the reply. I only know the bare basics when it comes to electrical issues. This reply addresses my thoughts on if it is a ground related issue.

I will pick up a meter tomorrow and go through your steps. Any thoughts on a good meter to buy? Thoughts on the Innova 3340?

 

Almost any DMM (Digital Multi Meter) is good for general automotive testing. In the old days, they used to use a test light for pretty much all automotive testing, and the tests I described could be done with just a 12V test light.

I've actually had pretty good luck with even the really cheap Red or Yellow meters that they sell at Harbor Freight.

If your willing to spend a little more, a good feature to look for is auto shut off. Many times I've really needed a test meter only to find that mine was dead because I left it on the last time I used it. Looking for that feature will also get you into a generally better class of product.

I can mention other features and name brands, and there's no question that a name brand unit will last longer, do more when you need it, and be more trustworthy than one where the blister pack weighs more than the product, but there's also some advantage to starting off with one that's expendable.

 

Got a late start and it’s HOT out there. (No garage or covered spot). Picked up a meter but am going to wait until it cools somewhat today to go back out. Pulled the visors off both sides to inspect them to see if any damage was done and to see if there was any change since they were my last problem point.

Also received my scanner today. Got some interesting results:

 

What scanner did you buy?

 

Innova 5610